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MOTEHISTORIE

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THE ARTISTS DESERVE THEIR CREDIT

"Marengo" Napoleon Bonaparte's Arab Stallion

by Antoine-Jean Gros

Painter  Antoine-Jean Gros (French, 1771-1835)

Marengo (c. 1793–1831) was the famous war horse of Napoleon I of France. Named after the Battle of Marengo, through which he carried his rider safely, he was imported to France from Egypt following the Battle of Abukir in 1799 as a six-year-old. An Arabian breed, Marengo was probably bred at the famous El Naseri stud. Although small in size (only 14.1 hands (57 inches, 145 cm)) for his species, he was described as a reliable, steady mount.

1920 Art Deco Sunburst design by George Barbier. 

A sunburst is a design or figure commonly used in architectural ornaments and design patterns and possibly pattern books. It consists of rays or “beams” radiating out from a central disk in the manner of sunbeams. Sometimes part of a sunburst, a semicircular or semi-elliptical shape, is used. Traditional sunburst motifs usually show the rays narrowing as they get further from the centre; from the later 19th century they often get wider, as in the Japanese Rising Sun Flag, which is more appropriate in optical terms. (x

Countess Spalletti (La Contessa Rosa Spalletti), Photo by Mario Nunes Vais, 1915.

Possibly a daughter of Gabriella Rasponi Spalletti who was born in Ravenna Rasponi April 10, 1853 by Cesare Rasponi Bonanzi (1822-1886), vice consul in France, a deputy in Lanza governments and De Pretis and later senator of the Kingdom of Italy and Letizia Rasponi Marat (1832-1906), daughter of conte Giulio Rasponi, and granddaughter of Gioacchino Marat and Carolina Bonaparte (1782-1839), Napoleon’s sister.

Coty powder compact designed by Leon Bakst, Made by Coty Inc in Paris, France, 1935-1955.

The founder, Francois Coty believed the aesthetics of the packaging to be as important as the product. After his successful artistic partnership with designer Rene Lalique in the early 20th century, Coty approached Leon Bakst to design the Air Spun powder box. Leon Bakst is celebrated for his colourful exotic costumes and decors created for the Ballet Russes, which prompted new fashions in dress and interior decoration. This colourful, exotic aesthetic can be seen in the design of the powder box, where fluffy white powder puffs with black and gold handles float against an orange and gold background. Bakst’s original powder box design was made of Moroccan leather with gold leaf embossing. However, these boxes were expensive to manufacture and Coty paid his customers to return them when empty. They were then sent to Japan where the gold leaf would be scraped off and then reused. Bakst’s design was later modified into a cheaper cardboard version by Coty’s commercial artist Georges Draeger. The design of the packaging created an impression of luxury and prestige, while still being mass produced. These ‘luxury’ items were made even more accessible to middle and working class women by packaging them in small quantities and creating gift sets and co-ordinating product lines. Coty Air Spun powder was very successful, selling in Europe, North and South America, Australia and Asia. It was so popular in Asia that the ‘Rachel’ colour was created specifically for Asian skin tones. Coty is an internationally renowned beauty product and fragrance company that was founded in Paris in 1904 by François Coty. The company was acquired by the fragrance division of Unilever in 2005. In 2010 Coty had it’s headquarters in New York City and had become the world’s largest manufacturer of mass-market fragrances, aligning many of its new fragrances with celebrities like Sarah Jessica Parker, David and Victoria Beckham, Jennifer Lopez and Calvin Klein. Alysha Buss, Curatorial volunteer with Anne-Marie Van de Ven, Curator, February 2011 Reference: Toledano, Roulhac B. and Coty, Elizabeth Z., ‘Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money’, Pelican Publishing Company Inc, Gretna, Louisiana, 2009

ART DECO OBJECTS From the Prince and Princess Sadruddin Aga Khan Collection. 

Vanity cases, powder compacts and cigarette boxes are the backdrop for refined decorative effects, executed on the miniature surfaces. To look at, these feminine accessories are veritable masterpieces of creativity, fantasy and technique. Made from gold or platinum, they are enriched with precious stones and gemstones, and covered in mother-of-pearl, enamel or lacquer. (x) 

The Myth of the East. CHINESE INFLUENCE: 

1) 1927 Cigarette Case by Cartier Paris.

2) 1928 Poppy Vanity Case by Janesich, Manufactured by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris. 

3) 1930 Koi and Dragon Compact by Cartier Paris. Chinese Influence.

4) 1927 Dragon and the Pearl Vanity Case by Cartier with mosaic by Vladimir Makovsky, Paris.

5) 1928 Mountain Landscape Vanity Case by Boucheron Paris. 

6) 1929 Vanity Case by Black, Starr and Frost Mosaic probably by Vladimir Makovsky. 

7) 1925 Panther Vanity Case by Cartier Paris.

Art Deco objects from From the Prince and Princess Sadruddin Aga Khan Collection. 

  Vanity cases, powder compacts and cigarette boxes are the backdrop for refined decorative effects, executed on the miniature surfaces. To look at, these feminine accessories are veritable masterpieces of creativity, fantasy and technique. Made from gold or platinum, they are enriched with precious stones and gemstones, and covered in mother-of-pearl, enamel or lacquer. (x)

1)  1928 Chrysanthemum Vanity Case by Lacloche Frères, Manufactured by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris. Japanese Influence. 

2)  1925 Floral Sash Vanity Case by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris. Japanese Influence.

3)  1928 Vanity Case by Van Cleef & Arpels, Manufactured by Alfred Langlois, Paris. Persian Influence.

4)  1930 Noble Hunt Vanity Case by Rose Vanity Case by Lacloche Frères,  Manufactured by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris, 1925 ,  Paris. Persian Influence.

5)  1928 Scale Pattern Box by Cartier, Paris. European Influence. 

6)  1927 Feuilles Cigarette Case by Van Cleef & Arpels, Manufactured by Alfred Langlois, Paris. European Influence.

7)   1927 Aubergine Motif, Cigarette Case by Van Cleef & Arpels, Manufactured by Alfred Langlois, Paris. European Influence.

8)  1926 Amber and Snakeskin Vanity Case by Van Cleef & Arpels, Manufactured by Strauss Allard & Meyer, Paris. European Influence.

9)  1925 Rose Vanity Case by Lacloche Frères, Manufactured by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris. European Influence.

10)  1928 Box by Van Cleef & Arpels, Manufactured by Strauss, Allard and Meyer, Paris. European Influence.