Ancient Roman apodesme, worn by both women and men, folded from a single piece of fabric. The breast band was a normal, if optional, item in a woman’s underwear. Women in Ancient Rome adopted a form of the Greek apodesme, known as the strophium ormamillare. Since the Romans regarded large breasts as comical, or characteristic of aging or unattractive women, young girls wore breast bands secured tightly in the belief that doing so would prevent overly large, sagging breasts.
Sometimes in the most sexually explicit Roman paintings, the breasts are kept covered by the strophium. The settings in which the paintings are found indicate that the women so depicted may be prostitutes, but it can be difficult to discern why an artist decides in a given scenario to portray the breasts covered by a strophium or exposed.
The so-called “Bikini Girls” mosaic from the Villa Romana del Casale (4th Century AD) shows 10 women performing gymnastic or dance routines, weight-lifting, discus throwing, and running, while wearing a garment like a strapless bra and briefs.
Other primitive iterations of a brassiere are depicted earlier in wall paintings preserved at Pompeii by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79 AD.
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