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Four Bricks Tall

@fourbrickstall / fourbrickstall.tumblr.com

Toy photographer, LEGO ambassador, and @brickcentral community manager. @takebettertoyphotos creator.

I'm Four Bricks Tall and I'm a photographer living in Spain currently.

I've been shooting LEGO minifigs and models since 2013. I started right here on Tumblr as Ogle My Lego but then changed to Four Bricks Tall because I couldn't have "Lego" in my domain name.

So being here again feels like home. This place and Twitter feel like the good old days before Instagram, and everyone chasing likes and followers there.

I like trivia and LEGO so that's kind of the reason why I chose my username: the height of a minifig is four bricks tall.

My favorite themes in general are medieval fantasy and castle, steampunk, and apocalypse.

I have professional experience as a photographer and I teach some of the stuff I know to toy photographers. I really love watching people develop their skills. It's great to see someone grow their skills month after month.

I'm a LEGO Community Ambassador of @brickcentral too. That's just a fancy title to say I am the representative of BrickCentral to The LEGO Group. It's a lot of paperwork 🤣

Run down chapel

I've had this build sitting in my to-do list for awhile and since I was messing around with LEDs the other day, I finally got around to building it.

Turns out the LEDs I was experimenting with didn't really work with this build. So I used my bigger kit here:

I got this off AliExpress some time ago. They're ok: overall I find tiny LEDs a hassle to work with. There's still no really good solution I would recommend to anyone.

But here is the photo I quickly took in my studio last night to see the stained glass:

And more shots outdoors today (you can't see the stained glass):

For my gear, I used a Sigma 19mm 2.8 just to change it up. It's a bit too wide-- I cropped about 1/5 off these. Maybe for a bigger model or more impressive background.

But I'll keep the lens on for a month or so anyway.

Danny Daycare

An outdoor photo shoot inspired by this fun and cute video of Danny MacAskill taking his friend's kid out on his bike.

I also changed up my gear: swapped out a macro for a Sigma 19mm f/2.8 that I probably bought as one of my first native E-mount lenses.

I just wanted to get a different but still fun experience today, which is what photography is all about to me. It's why I buy gear at all.

The back-breaking, dirt-eating pose of a toy photographer

Thankfully, I don't do this plank anymore since I upgraded to a camera with an articulating screen. Now I just crouch. Still a bit back-breaking though.

I have a couple of workarounds for that (tethering, field monitor, etc.) but I feel they just create a different kind of hassle as they solve another.

Anyway, I wrote about gear and how it solves problems and makes me a better photographer on my Substack: The real reason gear matters - by Four Bricks Tall (substack.com)

I'm judging DIY Photography's first ever toy photography contest!

There are 2 categories: LEGO and... not LEGO (it's "action figures" but I really think collectibles and other toys can go in here).

Show me your best 3 shots by submitting here:

If you follow me, you know I'll be looking for a unique concept and great composition. Lighting is always a plus, whether that's natural or artificial.

Last call is June 8! So enter if you haven't already 😉

📖TIP: Framing Camera Shots - Close Up and POV

This week we’re getting up close and personal with our little LEGO friends… so close that your minifig can sneeze all over your lens. To take LEGO close-ups, you’re going to need a macro lens that has a very short minimum focusing distance. A super macro lens capable of macro photos of insects would be the one you’re looking for, not all macro lenses can get quite that close.

Overview Wide Shot Full and Medium Shots >Close Up and POV Shot<

Medium Close Up

The Medium Close Up Shot frames your subject from the chest and up. Think of this as your standard minifig portrait. This shot is mainly to highlight the personality and emotions of your subject.

Close Up

The Close Up Shot is all about the head. Generally, we humans look at a person’s eyes first, so make sure you get the eyes in focus. I suggest using manual focus with a small aperture (the higher the number the smaller the aperture, so f8 and up).

Extreme Close Up

The Extreme Close Up frames the eyes or other details. In film, framing just the eyes gives the viewer a sense of the character’s inner emotions, it can also be an extreme close up of various accessories and builds.

Detail Shot

The Detail Shot is a variation of the extreme close up where we are focusing on an object or accessory. It is used to highlight a storytelling element in the scene that the viewer may not notice.

POV Shot

The purpose of a POV Shot is to make the viewer feel like they're part of the scene. One way to achieve this is to have a limb extending from the edge of the frame, as if the viewer's hand is interacting with the subject. In this example, I chose a dragon's POV, with his claws grasping the knight.

Over the Shoulder Shot

The Over-the-Shoulder Shot is another way to make the viewer feel like they're part of the scene. Shot from behind the shoulder of the observing character, it makes the viewer feel like they're standing just behind the observing character, looking at the subject.

There are many shots that I haven't been able to include due to how long this article is getting, but I hope this helps inspire you to create some great LEGO photography. Thanks for reading!

Get those detail and CUs!

Good night from the forest.

I've been playing around with cropping in post a bit more for the @brickcentral tips this month. I try not to do this too much because I get into this loop of recomposing and then I'm undecided in the end.

Here's a closer crop, which I love because it feels a lot more intimate and I really love this character.

I can see a bit of the wire in the lantern but I'm cool with that being there.

Sod roof druid hut

This model was a result of a couple of false starts trying to build a Viking farmhouse for a different character. I didn't have the right parts and then it turned out that the design didn't really work so I ended up building an A-frame hut with a sod roof.

I first saw grass roofs at the Skansen open-air museum in Stockholm a few years ago and I thought it was such a beautiful way to blend with nature:

I wanted grass to grow upright on my little hut too but that doesn't really work with LEGO so I just added textures and shapes to give it some organic kind of look.

Then I added an armchair build by brickdesigned that I thought would work well as outdoor seating for this cute druid character (inspired by @monsieurkek) to rest on. These little builds are so fun!

Real talk: nobody gives a shit

So just create what you want to create and quit worrying about what other people think.

LEGO photographers who shoot only at home: it's fine to bring your toys outside.

Artists hyper-curating their profiles: nobody's checking.

Read the essay here:

📖TIPS: Framing Camera Shots - Overview

When it comes to photography, there are a variety of shots a photographer can take that help you tell a story for your viewer. Many of the terms I’ll be using this month originate in film-making, which I learned in various courses in art school like storyboarding and film history, and are equally relevant to toy photography.

A CAMERA SHOT size refers to what elements are included in your photo within the outside edge (called the FRAME) of your photo. It can also refer to the purpose of the photo. 

Some of the most common framing camera shots are:

  • Extreme Wide Shot
  • Wide Shot
  • Full Shot
  • Medium Wide Shot
  • Medium Shot
  • Medium Close Up
  • Close Up
  • Extreme Close Up

Some camera shots that refer to the purpose used:

  • Establishing Shot
  • Detail Shot
  • Reaction shot
  • POV Shot
  • …And many more!

The use of multiple of these different shots for your photography will create variety and interest between photos. It's also great for maximizing the photography you can create with one set/build. Personally, I find that by shooting both wider and up close, I save time by setting up a scene once and getting multiple shots out of it.

This month’s tips will touch on subjects from previous Tips. In 2020, foolishbricks (IG) did a brief overview of some of the different camera shots in his 📖TIPS: Anatomy of an Image, and nocturnelle9 (IG) had tips on camera lenses and focal lengths in her 📖TIPS: Wide angle vs Telephoto. In 2022 @minifiglifescenes wrote a series on camera angles in 📖TIPS: Using Camera Angles.

I’ll return next week to go over Wide Shots. Thanks for reading!

~@glowingbrickette, Moderator