Ceremonial Headdress

China

19th century

Medium: wire, silk, gilt silver, plumage, pearls, gems

Notes from the Walters Art Museum: This headdress was likely once worn by the Empress Dowager Cixi (1835-1908), the effective ruler of China during the later years of the Qing Dynasty. It is an exquisite example of Chinese decoration and the symbolism used to express one’s rank. The small phoenixes emerging from the surface represent the empress, while the countless pearls and gemstones mark this piece as something special for the adornment of the highest-ranking woman in Chinese society.

Edit: We have reason to believe that this piece may be displayed incorrectly. Please refer to this post for more information. 

• Dress. Date: ca. 1865 Culture: French Medium: Silk

1890s dresses -

Top  1891 Reception dress. From tumblr.com/fashion-inspiration-s 1280X1920.

Second row left  1890-1895 Dinner dress front (location ?). From tumblr.com/costumeloverz71 626X900.

Second row right  1890-1895 Dinner dress back (location ?). From tumblr.com/costumeloverz71 865X1200.

Third row  ca. 1895 Paquin Robe de forme cloche en satin de soie chocolat (Tessier Sarou - 21Nov22 auction Lot 15). From their Web site 1776X2750 @144 4Mp.

Fourth row  1896 Worth evening dress (auctioned by Hindman). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1061X1600.

Fifth row  1898 Lisa Colt Curtis by John Singer Sargent (location ?). From tumblr.com/baroque-beauty-24 1450X3072.

Dresses from Around 1880 (from top to bottom) -

Awaiting the suitor by Gustave Léonard de Jonghe (location ?). From Yulia Mi’s photostream on flickr; fixed spots & some cracks w Pshop 2060X2880.

Joie maternelle by Gustave Léonard de Jonghe (location ?). From tumblr.com/artthatgivesmefeelings 1576X1920.

Sweet dreams by Gustave Leonard de Jonghe (location ?). From Yulia Mi’s photostream on flickr 1510X2048.

The confidence by Ferdinand Heilbuth (on sale at Ary Jean Art Gallery). From their Web site; fixed biggest spots wPshop 1961X1467

• Bracelet.

Place of origin: Germany

Date: 1830's

Medium: Cast iron and steel

• Dress.

Designer: Bill Blass

Date: 1968

Medium: Feathers, organza

• Gold brown dress.

Date: 1863-1868

Medium: Silk

1889 Miss Dorothea Gwladys Tombs, later Lady Butler by Archibald James Stuart Wortley (location ?). From liveinternet.ru/users/marylai/rubric/6851992/ 2116X3200 @300 2.8Mj.

Ulyana Sergeenko, Fall/Winter 2013-2014

John Galliano for Christian Dior Black Embroidered Gown via 1stdibs

(seraphica)

Rohit Bal for India Bridal Fashion Week

CULTURAL PRACTICE:

“‘Lipombo’, the custom of skull elongation, which was a status symbol among the Mangbetu ruling classes at the beginning of the century and was later emulated by neighboring groups, evolved into a common ideal of beauty among the peoples of the northeastern Congo. At birth the heads of  babies’  were tightly wrapped with cloth in order to give their heads the streamlined look. The practice began dying out in the 1950s with the arrival of more Europeans and westernization. Because of this distinctive look, it is easy to recognize Mangbetu figures in African art.” - Source

Visit the INSPIRATION DIARY by artist Zarah Abraham: http://zarah-abraham.tumblr.com

• American Indian beaded sash integrated into western-style handbag.

Date: 1890-1910

Place of origin: United States of America American Indian

Medium: Hinged metal frame with embossed floral pattern, dark gray velvet with white floral beaded sash applied over surface, lined with dark yellow silk, linked wrist strap.

• Saadi: Tige collection.

Designer/Maker: Christian Dior; made in the atelier flou by Christiane; embroidery by Bataille

Place of origin: Made in Paris, worn in Toronto

Date: Autumn/Winter 1947-1948

Medium: Silk satin, embroidered and beaded

Emperor Meiji taking a stroll.

In 1871, Emperor Meiji issued a mandate requiring high officials, sailors, and army officers to wear Western-style clothing during business hours. Women also followed this trend, wearing bustle dresses made from Japanese textiles. During the Meiji Period, wearing Western-style clothing because synonymous with embracing modernity. However, Western-style apparel was impractical for Japanese lifestyles, as full skirts and bustles were unsuitable for sitting on tatami mats, and Western-style shoes were difficult to remove before entering a building (per Japanese custom).

Source: Musée Virtuel

Ensemble House of Worth. Attributed to Charles Frederick Worth & to Jean-Philippe Worth. 1893. French. Silk, jet & metal.

By the last quarter of the 19th century, shoes specifically matched to a particular evening dress became an increasingly common phenomenon. While white shoes could be economically dyed to match a special dress, the wealthiest clients would have shoes specifically made to coordinate. This pair of slippers is accompanied in the collection by a matching evening dress, by the renowned House of Worth. The decision to focus all the elaborate decoration on the bow is inventive for this period, and one mark of the high quality. | THE MET

Schiaparelli | Spring/Summer 2023

Lovely extant 1890s dresses. These images were recently posted to Tumblr -

Top left  1890-1892 Front of evening dress. From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1335X2048.

Top center  1890-1892 Back of evening dress. From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1365X2048.

Top right  1890-1892 Embroidery detail of evening dress. From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1366X2048.

Second row  1890-1892 Side of evening dress. From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 1365X2048.

Third row left  1894 Front of redingote by Jean-Philippe Worth (location ?). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast992X2048.

Third row right  1894 Back of redingote by Jean-Philippe Worth (location ?). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 988X2048.

Fourth row  1894 Side of redingote by Jean-Philippe Worth (location ?). From tumblr.com/fashionsfromthepast 991X2048.

Fifth row left  1895 Front of dress by Laboudt & Robina (France) (Metropolitan). From tumblr.com/beautifulcentury 1839X3072.

Fifth row right  1895 Back of dress by Laboudt & Robina (France) (Metropolitan). From tumblr.com/beautifulcentury 1992X3072.

The Pink Dress by Alexandre Jacques Chantron (locatopn ?). From Amer Tree’s photostream on flickr 780X1600 @72 275kj. This dress shows the transition from late Victorian to Edwardian dress with full sleeves from the former and the pouter pigeon bodice with waistband from the later. This could be from the late 1890s.

1899 Elegant Woman with Fur Muff by Francine Charderon (location ?). From Amber Tree’s photostream on flickr 577X1000 @72 156kj

Christian Friedrich Reinhold Lisiewski, Porträt der Agnes von Anhalt-Dessau, Freifrau von Loën

1763