Chinese Culture Hanfu

【Historical Artifact Reference】:

Ming Dynasty Royal Portrait:

・Portrait of Empress Xiaoduanxian (Chinese: 孝端顯皇后; 7 November 1564 – 7 May 1620) In ceremonial dress (翟衣/di yi)

・Nine Dragons and Nine Phoenix Crowns of Empress Xiaoduanxian (※This Phoenix Crowns only for important ceremonial occasion which call “礼冠/Li Guan” wear with ceremonial dress(翟衣/di yi) 

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Unearthed from Ming Dynasty royal mausoleum Ming Dingling (明定陵)  , is a mausoleum wehre Wanli Emperor, together with his two empresses Wang Xijie and Dowager Xiaojing, was buried.

In addition to this phoenix crown, the Empress has another phoenix crown for other occasions.

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Collection of the National Museum of China.

[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Ming Dynasty Traditional Clothing Hanfu (翟衣) & Phoenix Crown (鳳冠)  Reference to Ming Dynasty Relics & Empress Portrait

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【History Note】

【 Influence to Other Country】

Korean queens started to wear the Diyi (Korean: 적의; Hanja: 翟衣) in 1370 AD under the final years of Gongmin of Goryeo,when Goryeo adopted the official ceremonial attire of the Ming dynasty. Same as the early Korea Joseon, were bestowed by the Ming Dynasty.

According to the Annals of Joseon, from 1403 to the first half of the 17th century the Ming Dynasty sent a letter, which confers the korea queen with a title along with the following items: 翟冠(Ming womens whose husband held the highest government official posts can wear this kind of crown,different from Ming Empress Phoenix Crown 鳳冠), a vest called 褙子(Beizi), and a 霞帔(Xiapei). However, the Diyi sent by the Ming dynasty did not correspond to those worn by the Ming empresses as Joseon was considered to be ranked two ranks lower than Ming.

Instead the Diyi which was bestowed corresponded to the Ming women's whose husband held the highest government official posts. In the early Ming Dynasty period, the Diyi were given to Korea Joseon By Ming, but after the Ming Dynasty reformed the clothing system, The Ming Dynasty bestow the 大衫( Dà shān) to the Korean queen instead of Diyi. The Diyi worn by the Korean queen and crown princess was originally made of red silk; it then became blue in 1897 when the Joseon king and queen were elevated to the status of emperor and empress.

it then became blue in 1897 when the Joseon king and queen were elevated to the status of emperor and empress.

After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, the system of China granting clothing to Korea was interrupted. Korea Joseon were forced to become tributary state of the Qing Dynasty. Korea Joseon carried out "nationalization" based on the costumes bestowed by the Ming Dynasty in the past.  But according <Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty Volume 46> "嬪宮冊禮時, 旣有翟衣, 則當有翟冠, 而我國匠人不解翟冠之制。 考諸《謄錄》, 則宣廟朝壬寅年嘉禮時, 都監啓以: ‘七翟冠之制, 非但匠人未有解知者, 各樣等物, 必須貿取於中朝, 而終難自本國製造, 何以爲之?’ 云則宣庙有: ‘冠則制造爲難。’ 之敎。 “

Although Korea Joseon has Diyi,but no craftsman know how to make 翟冠(Di Guan), and the materials needed for make 翟冠(Di Guan) need to be taken from China (which need money for that). After all, it is difficult to manufacture in Korea. Therefore, Korea Joseon has not worn 翟冠(Di Guan) since the fall of the Ming Dynasty and change it to 대수머리(大首머리)

Korea "nationalization" process↓

대수머리(大首머리)

In Japan, the features of the Tang dynasty-style huiyi was found as a textile within the formal attire of the Heian Japanese empresses.

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[Hanfu・漢服] Ink wash painting of Tang Dynasty Ladies Art By Artist @蘇無竹

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[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Song Dynasty Hanfu Photoshoot

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【Reference Artifacts】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Eastern Han Dynasty (25–220 A.D.) Hanfu-Civil Officials Based On Han Dynasty Relics

 In the Eastern Han Dynasty, officials were divided into civil officials(文官) and military officials (武官),and civil officials usually wore black robes and a cloth crown called "Jinxian Crown/進賢冠" on their heads.

The military officer (武官) is different from the civilian officer. They wear red robes and wear a crown call” Wubian DaGuan/Huben crown(武弁大冠 or 虎贲冠)”,These crown is characterized by always having two feathers on it

During the Three Kingdoms period(220–280 AD) in China (the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty), Zhuge Liang(諸葛亮), a well-known Chinese military engineer, strategist, statesman, and writer should wear the above civil official clothes when meet the emperor instead of wearing the clothes like below:

・↑Portrait of Zhuge Liang in the China Ming Dynasty(1368-1644 AD).

・↑The image of Zhuge Liang produced by a Japanese game company

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The above image is the image of Zhuge Liang imagined by later generations combine with the actual costumes at the Song Dynasty(960–1279 AD) in China.

The Three Kingdoms game, including those made by the Japanese, is also based on the image of Zhuge Liang imagined and drawn by people after the Song Dynasty(960–1279 AD).

Which is not conform to the clothing that Zhuge Liang should have worn in  Three Kingdoms period(220–280 AD,the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty)

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【Reference Artifacts】

[Hanfu · 漢服]China [Five Dynasties And Ten Kingdoms Period—Early Song Dynasty] Chinese Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot Based On《Bodhisattva Guide of Souls/引路菩萨图》

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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Song Dynasty (960–1279 AD)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot

During the Northern Song Dynasty, women who are 命婦 to attend formal occasions or common people's women often wore crowns and long-sleeved shirts and skirts when they got married.

※命婦(ming fu):Generally referred to as titled women. A married woman enjoys various ceremonial treatment, and generally refers to the official's mother and wife.

Women in the Song Dynasty had the custom of wearing flower crowns, some with fresh flowers, some with fake flowers(make by paper or silk); some with single branches, some with several branches; some of them will take flowers of the four seasons and combined it inserted on a crown, which is called "one year scene(一年景)".

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【Historical Artifacts Reference】

Eastern Jin Dynasty-Northern and Southern Dynasty (Current version: Tang Dynasty copy.ver)Painting

[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Jin Dynasty-Northern and Southern Dynasties Traditional Clothing Hanfu,Hairstyle & Makeup

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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot

【Historical Artifacts Reference】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D)Traditional Clothing Refer to Tang Dynasty Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes Murals

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[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Hanfu Photoshoots【漢元素】

我此番上山，是为要成为天下第一！

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【Historical Artifacts Reference】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Western Han Dynasty(206 BCE–9 CE ) Traditional Clothing Hanfu Based On Western Han Dynasty Relics

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【Historical Artifacts Reference-Hairstyle】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese [Late Tang Dynasty-Five Dynasties And Ten Kingdoms Period] Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot

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【Historical Artifacts Reference】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D) Traditional Clothing Hanfu & Hairstyle Based On Tang Dynasty Female Figurines

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【Shangsi Festival/Double Third Festival/上巳節】

Double Third Festival or Shangsi Festival (traditional Chinese: 上巳節) is a Chinese festival celebrated on the third day of the third month of the Chinese calendar.

【Historical Artifacts Reference】

In fact, the phoenix hairpins recorded in historical materials are worn front and back, not worn on the left and right.

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Refer to Tang Dynasty Tomb of Prince Yide Stone Carving

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【Historical Artifacts Reference-Skirt Pattern】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907 A.D)Traditional Clothing Photoshoot

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【Historical Artifacts Reference】

【Skirt Restoriation And Way Of Wearing Reference】

※Let the inner skirt show through the side※

【Tang Dynasty Hairpin Artifacts】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D)Traditional Clothing Refer to Tang Dynasty  Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes Murals

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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618-907A.D)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Photoshoot

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【Historical Reference Artifacts】

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD) Traditional Clothing Hanfu Based On  Ming Dynasty Painting《夏景货郎图》

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[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty Hanfu Photoshoots

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[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Early Qing Dynasty Traditional Clothing & Qingming Festival/清明節

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Han ethnic Women's attire and hairstyle in the early Qing Dynasty was not like men that force to change by the Qing government. Women's attire and hairstyle were not particularly different from late Ming Dynasty.

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【Qingming Festival/清明節】

The Qingming festival or Ching Ming Festival,also known as Tomb-Sweeping Day in English (sometimes also called Chinese Memorial Day, Ancestors' Day, the Clear Brightness Festival, or the Pure Brightness Festival), is a traditional Chinese festival observed by ethnic Chinese in mainland China, Hong Kong, Macau, Taiwan, Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia, Indonesia, Philippines, Thailand, and Vietnam.

During Qingming, Chinese families visit the tombs of their ancestors to clean the gravesites and make ritual offerings to their ancestors. Offerings would typically include traditional food dishes and the burning of joss sticks and joss paper.The holiday recognizes the traditional reverence of one's ancestors in Chinese culture.

The origins of the Qingming Festival go back more than 2500 years, although the observance has changed significantly. It became a public holiday in mainland China in 2008, where it is associated with the consumption of qingtuan,green dumplings made of glutinous rice and Chinese mugwort or barley grass.

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【Qingming Festival Customs: 插柳/戴柳 put willow/wearing willow 】

“清明不插柳，红颜变皓首”：

As the saying goes, it means in Qingming Festival, in the first ten days of March of the lunisolar calendar every year, is the day when traditional customs go to graves to worship ancestors. According to the old custom, when returning from worshiping ancestors during the Qingming Festival, people have to break off willow branches and wear them on head.It is said that if people don’t do this, young people will become old people with white hair.

「清明日，滿街叫賣楊柳，人家買之插於門上，農人以插柳日晴雨佔水旱，若雨，主水。」

every Qingming Festival, "willows are sold all over the street, and people buy them and put them on the door.

Q:why wearing willow or put willow on the door?

“Take the willow and put it on the door/house, and a hundred ghosts will not enter the house”

It is said that a hundred spirits come out on Qingming Festival, and people need to worship their ancestors while carefully keep a certain distance from other spirits and keep them out of house. Willow has become a weapon for people to avoid evil spirits and protect people from them.

The custom is still widespread in parts of China especially Wudi(吴地) area： area in the south of the Yangtze River

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In ancient times, there were many interesting Qingming Festival customs. Apart from visit the tombs of their ancestors to clean the gravesites and make ritual offerings to their ancestors, there were also a series of custom sports activities such as spring outing, swinging, Cuju (蹴鞠：is an ancient Chinese ball game）  , playing polo etc.

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