spfw: movimento
(images via ffw)
yes, yet another swimwear/beachside-y range. shut up. we’re at são paulo fashion week. but what causes opt to stick around for another look, as opposed to slamming the computer shut and trolling through a field instead? well, in the case of movimento’s spring 2012 range, i was drawn to the bright colours and artful patterns employed—rather than trying to reinvent the swimsuit, it seemed, these kids were just confident they knew how to make one look good.
inspired by artworks, painting, and, as ffw nicely describes, (trans.) “(t)he movement of color,” the range featured heavily prints created by pernambuco artist jorge barbosa specifically for the label (many of which were actually handpainted on the individual pieces; i wonder that it’s perhaps counter-intuitive to the whole ‘swimwear’ thing as well, but, yannow, art showing and all). references were generally optimistic, sunny subjects like flowers, nature, plaids, and the like.
the colour palette for the range, then, too, was quite cheerful, with shades of bright white, coral, red, pale blue, black, orange, neon mint, lemon, and hot pink. fabrics were on the experimental side, with high-elasticity, technologically-savvy fabrics combined with organic options. meanwhile, ruffles, belts, beads, high-cuts, and cut-outs were employed to add interest to the pieces, with bikinis and sexy options rather strong in a range which took such demure, sweet prints as a starting point.
while ffw’s review argues that there was entirely too much swimwear, portais da moda enthused over the cover-up type pieces, calling out hot pants, “silky dresses and blouses, high-waisted shorts”, lean cigarette trousers, and cropped blouses as some of the other charming options. indeed, i agreed that the accessories went a little strong, and that there were just too many bikinis (how many does a girl really need?) without enough more conservative options, but it was hard not to enjoy the summery outlook and captivating prints. would that they had more cuts to enliven those images.
(see the full show video here)
updated: with new images
spfw: neon
(images via ffw)
são paulo fashion week seems to have two distinct types of design houses that show during its schedule; those who offer high-fashion, artful designs and the zany, madcap brands that perhaps intend to overtake the world with one of their eccentric choices, or perhaps just bring a little glee to our day. at any rate, when attempting to define the f/w 2011 neon show, it falls decidedly into the latter category.
the show’s theme was the subversive surrealism of modern-day bohemians, and the pieces had hints of old world film glamour, the eighties, and trompe l’oeil prints, as well as dada-ist artworks, offered in blazes of colour and such fabrics as grosgrain, jersey, leather, silk, suede, velvet, taffeta, crepe, and linen.
occasionally pieces, such as the dress below, tried to get a little too friendly with the models (just thinking about being groped by those giant red nails is making me feel like pulling an extra layer on), while others such as the sunglasses dress would require one walking around with arms askew all day long in order for anyone to get the joke (thus not providing much comfort), and therefore weren’t completely wearable. however, there were plenty of alternately charming pieces (as above), with some of the zest, but no unpleasant physical demands made.
the show was pulled off because it retained a sense of humour (and great tailoring), which in turn kept it relevant to the fashion world; too many labels try too hard with the jokes, forgetting that they’re here firstly to give us something to wear, or at least something artful, as opposed to merely a laugh for themselves.
(watch the full runway show video here)
updated: with new images
spfw: samuel cirnansck
(images via ffw)
set against a screen of static as a backdrop, the models in samuel cirnansck’s f/w 2011 show at sao paulo fashion week for a moment appeared dark, before bursting into the full colours of his beautiful, mcqueen-ian creations.
the designer’s inspiration for the season was varied, with the central theme of an urban lady suddenly lost in the wilds of the forest on a very dark evening. (hence, pieces like the above, an edgy twist on ‘little red riding hood’) he also used the work of sculptor patrick doherty and surrealist painter mark ryden to round out his vision.
working with materials such as latex, silk, cotton, viscose, wool, lace, and silicone, the designer wound details such as beads and embroidery into the fabric of the garments, as well as the rough, sticklike pieces that became almost like birds’ nests.
the latter was inspired by dougherty’s book “stickwork”, and the designer explained in a interview prior to the show (translated), “It’s as if nature were expelled in your space, and returning back - the mountains, the streams, borders the river,” he says. “Then I found interesting to make clothes wood, tree branches, roots … It seems that the woman was abducted by the forest and nature took it back.”
this is the designer’s approximately 13th collection at são paulo fashion week, with most of his works created by hand, so that each garment is unique unto itself. he notes on his bio page of his work (translated), “”everything that is good, bad, beautiful, ugly, art, architecture, music … I always create a story.”
anyway, his work is spectacular, not only because it does tell a story, but because it’s as wearable as it is artful. with creations like these, i always wonder that spfw doesn’t get more attention, in the face of some of the rather dull things (as the top critics gleefully point out) that regularly come from more famous fashion weeks. but then, more for us, i always say.
(see the full show video here)
updated: with new images
