‘So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity and conservatism, all of which may appear to give peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more damaging to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future. The very basic core of a mans living spirit is his passion for adventure. The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new and different sun.’

A quote taken from one of my all time favorite Movies ‘Into the Wild ’

Surfing, alone among sports, generates laughter at its very suggestion, and this is because it turns not a skill into an art, but an inexplicable and useless urge into a vital way of life. I’ve only felt this connection up until now with Snowboarding, but i’m starting to have a full on love affair with Surfing, the Ocean and the freedom you get in and amongst the waves. It’s also a lot easier on the knees! - Marty