styleforum

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We are starting a new series to feature some of the clients of SARTORIALE.

The first post is about one of our favorite customers, with a great personality: Mr. ENZO CAPO. Last week we had the pleasure to chat with him.
Below you will find a short Q&A.

-Name, Occupation:
Enzo Capo. Lawyer,real estate developer from Naples.
-What is your first memory of style?
EC: As a child, seeing my father wearing a tie for gardening.
-How would you describe your style?
EC: Elegant and casual at the same time… sort of mix and match. Elegance should be comfortable and a reflection of your personality. I like small, personalized details, they create a unique appearance.
-Who is your style icon?
EC: Lapo Elkann.
-What are your most treasured possessions?
EC: My Rolexes.
-Your five favorite items currently on sale at Sartoriale?

Sartoria CHIAIA Napoli Navy Blue Suit : http://sartoriale.com/index.php?l=397495
K. by KITON Brown-Tan Leather Reversible Bomber Jacket:http://sartoriale.com/index.php?l=298651
RUBINACCI London House Bespoke Jacket:
http://sartoriale.com/index.php?l=359475
KITON Napoli Blue Cotton Dress Shirt:
http://sartoriale.com/index.php?l=459737
MAX VERRE Napoli Blue Gray Monk Strap Shoes:
http://sartoriale.com/index.php?l=180109

Rise High, Full Pleats, Can’t Lose

The advice that you should always avoid high-rise, pleated trousers - or that only heavier set men should wear pleats - is one of the most tired and wrongheaded ideas in menswear. Especially among fashion writers. Above is the photographer behind Guerreisms wearing a pair of bespoke trousers made for him by Salvatore Ambrosi, which he commissioned through The Armoury. The cut is on the rakish side of Italian tailoring, but as you can see – it looks great. 

With suits, a higher rise is especially nice, since it helps you avoid the dreaded shirt triangle that Jesse talked about. But even with odd trousers (meaning trousers that aren’t meant to be worn with a suit jacket), the cut can be flattering if it’s done well. 

Duke Ellington once said of music: “If it sounds good and feels good, then it is good.” The rules about whether or not you should wear pleats are silly. Maybe you like them, or maybe you don’t, but it’s always best to go by your eye. 

(Photo by EFV on StyleForum, where some Pitti Uomo coverage is going on)

Don’t bother even trying, is my advice. Nothing less cool than a guy who cares too much about keeping their clothes pristine. Someone spills coffee or wine on your shoes? No problem. Your Margiela leather jacket gets hit by booze, fries, and salad dressing? Meh. It just makes it more personal. Everything I own, I treat as wash and wear, doesn’t matter if it is a $30 Alternative Apparel piece or a Jil Sander cashmere cardigan. The only exceptions are tailored clothes, which I send to a really good cleaners. And I do that because they have been able to get pretty much everything out of anything.
—  Fok-Yan Leung
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Q & Answer: How Do You Pick the Right Shoe Size Online?

Zack writes to us to ask: I’m interested in buying a pair of shoes online, but am having trouble figuring out if they’d fit. I emailed the manufacturer and they gave me the length and width measurements in millimeters. The problem is, I don’t know whether the longest part of my foot aligns with the longest part of the shoe. Do you have any suggestions for what measurements I should ask for, so I can make an educated guess?

I’m not a big fan of measurements for shoes. Like you, I never know what I’m supposed to do with them. 

The length of a shoe can vary depending on a few factors.

  • Size, most obviously. But you’d be surprised how little changes from size to size. The difference can be as small as an eighth of an inch.
  • Welting technique. By welting technique, I mean how the sole was attached to the uppers. The length of your shoes – as measured from the bottom of your soles – can vary depending on the welting technique, as well as within the same kind of construction. Check out the two shoes above, for example. One is from Allen Edmonds, the other from Edward Green. Both are made with Goodyear welts, but the heel on the Allen Edmonds sticks out a bit more from the heel cup, while the heel of the Edward Greens hugs the shoe. 
  • Heel design. Although not as common, some shoes will have what’s known as a canted or Cuban heel, such as these from Saint Crispin’s. Again, compare them to the straight-down heel of the Allen Edmonds shoe above, and you can see how this would affect the measurement of the shoes at the bottom of the sole. 
  • Most importantly, the last. The last is the wooden form on which the leather is pulled over so that it can take a certain shape. You can have lasts in all sorts of shapes. Some shoes can be round and stubby (like Alden); some can be very long and pointy (like Gaziano & Girling). This will affect the length of a shoe more than anything else. You can have two perfectly fitting shoes, but one might be slightly longer simply because the toes were designed to look sleeker. 

In the end, it’s not even the length of your shoes that matter, but rather the heel-to-ball measurement. Critical to your fit is where the heel and ball of your feet sit in your shoes, not whether the ends of your shoe come within a certain distance to your toes.

There’s really only one way to figure out your size online, assuming you can’t try stuff on first.

  • Figure out your Brannock size. Go to a place like Nordstrom and ask someone to measure you. It’s sometimes good to get both feet measured, as few people have the same sized feet. 
  • Ask the store or manufacturer for advice. Not all salespeople will know what they’re talking about, so take their advice with a grain of salt. That said, there are few better places to get sizing advice than from the store or manufacturer you’re buying from. They’re the ones who are likely to be most knowledgeable. Tell them your Brannock size, and if you have other high-end shoes, your size in other brands and models. I don’t mean sneakers like Nike, but rather dress shoes from companies such as Allen Edmonds, Alden, Crockett & Jones, etc. 
  • Check this advice against the forum threads. Styleforum has the biggest archive of all clothing forums, but depending on what kind of shoes you’re buying, Superfuture and Ask Andy About Clothes can be useful as well. Iron Heart and Denimbro are also good for workwear type stuff. The key here is to search the archives before posting anything, as there’s usually a wealth of information you can mine. 

Finally, once you get your shoes, you can check to see if they fit according to this post.

Long story short: measurements are good for clothes, but bad for shoes. To find your size, you have to do some other stuff.

(Photos via Leffot, The Shoe Buff, and Bengal Stripe)

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Styleforum Challenge Wednesday (June 18, 2014)


Jacket: Polo (thrift)

Shirt: Kamakura

Tie: Kent Wang

Square: Drake’s (sale)

Pants: Taylor Stitch

Shoes: Meermin


The theme for this week’s Styleforum CM Friday Challenge (as selected by Cleav) is “knit or grenadine tie.” Of the two opposites on the tie formality spectrum, I chose to go with the knit.

The knit tie may be my preferred daily tie, as they help reduce the formality of jacket and tie combos to a level more “accepted” by society. I like their crunchy texture and the way their (usually) solid color helps balance out and calm down the wilder portions of an outfit.

To keep up with the casual nature of the knit tie, I paired it with similarly casual pieces: unstructured/unlined jacket, OCBD, cotton chambray pants and suede loafers.  With so many great entries already, this one one probably won’t take home the crown, but the knit tie/OCBD/casual jacket outfit is quickly becoming one of my favorite uniform iterations.