scanning

6

Dense Planar SLAM

Experimental AR computer vision project by Renato Salas-Moreno utilizes an RGB-D sensor and Oculus Rift to detect flat areas within a space to add digital content … such as placing a Facebook wall onto your living room wall - video embedded below:

We present an efficient new real-time approach which densely maps an environment using bounded planes and surfels extracted from depth images (like those produced by RGB-D sensors or dense multi-view stereo reconstruction). Our method offers the every-pixel descriptive power of the latest dense SLAM approaches, but takes advantage directly of the planarity of many parts of real-world scenes via a data-driven process to directly regularize planar regions and represent their accurate extent efficiently using an occupancy approach with on-line compression. Large areas can be mapped efficiently and with useful semantic planar structure which enables intuitive and useful AR applications such as using any wall or other planar surface in a scene to display a user’s content.

More Here

Cleaning Up Scans Tutorial

Hey guys! Yesterday artofcrystaldawn asked me how I digitally clean up my scans so I thought I’d make a little tutorial for all of you! Today I’ll show you the steps I take to clean up my sketches and this afternoon I’m going to paint this drawing and then I’ll show you how I digitally tweak the scans of my watercolors. Digital is about 50% of the process for me, both in the beginning (color roughs) and the end (tweaking bad scans to make them look either like the original or better than the original!).

I’m by no means a photoshop-ninja, these are just things I’ve picked up over time, but I wish someone had told me how to clean scans years ago so I thought I’d post my process. Sorry if this post takes up a lot of space on your dashboards (lots of photos!). If you don’t want to read it all, here’s a short breakdown of tips:

1. use a rough-edged brush to paint white

2. treat the rubber stamp tool like a brush and alter it’s settings, you’ll get more natural results

3. err on the side of not overdoing things. over-adjusting levels or over-doing the rubber stamp will look either garish or blurry (the more you rubber stamp, the blurrier it gets).  Dab at it instead.

This entire process takes about 10 minutes once you’re used to it, so it’s pretty fast!

STEP ONE: PAINT AWAY STUFF YOU DON’T WANT

Here’s the original scan of this drawing, pretty crappy:

I use a rough-edged brush to paint white around the part I want. I choose a rough brush because I think it helps to have a non-hard edge between where you’ve erased and where you haven’t to help it look more natural.

STEP TWO: ADJUST LEVELS (LIGHTLY!)

With less information to mess with, and most of the big stuff taken care of, I adjust the levels. Don’t go nuts doing this, though I totally find it tempting, too! I try to stay just right of the big peak of white because if I put the marker in the middle of the white it ends up looking too washed out (especially if I have “grey” tones like shaded-in skin tones). I mostly just adjust the white and then carefully tweak the middle values and barely touch the darkest values for sketches, or else the whole thing starts to look too garish. It’s okay if there are a few fuzzballs that adjusting the levels didn’t fix, we’ll get to those.

STEP THREE: FIX FUZZBALLS BY PAINTING

See these fuzzballs? 

BEFORE

This is when I go through and paint with the paintbrush in white the little imperfections away. I also sometimes edit the drawing a little here like removing those crazy sketch lines at the bottom of the drawing.

AFTER (I didn’t get them all this time, oh well)

STEP FOUR: RUBBER STAMP AWAY YOUR MESS UPS!

Sometimes I bung things up in a way I can’t erase with painting, so I use the rubber stamp tool. This thing is a powerful tool, so I recommend treating it with respect and not going nuts with it. :) I used to overuse it and it makes pieces look blurry or fuzzy. I dab with it now (with a tablet pen) and I also recommend playing with the opacity/flow in the “other dynamics” settings on the brush. It took me years to realize you could edit the tip of the rubber stamp, durr, but I seriously recommend it! It makes the stamp look much more natural (a must for watercolor editing which will come tomorrow).

Here are the things we’re trying to remove:

BEFORE

Settings I use. The brush is under “wet media brushes” in the basic brushes that come with photoshop cs4 (I’m behind, what).  The other dynamics are set to off with this picture because what I was removing wasn’t complicated, but I think it’s worth playing with them to see what you like:

AFTER:

And there you have it! It’s not perfect, but then again, it IS a sketch! :) I hope that helps, guys, and thanks once again for all your support! Stay-tuned, tomorrow I’ll post a tutorial on how to edit watercolor scans!

4

3D Scanning and Printing Classic Art

PhD Student Tim Zaman takes a look at his and other projects reproducing classic fine art with contemporary 3D technology.

Here is a stop-motion video demonstrating Tim’s method of 3D capture using cameras which are commercially available:

… and here, an exaggerated 3D relief of a Van Gogh painting:

Tim also introduces a system put together by Canon called Océ which, using Tim’s data, can physically reproduce a scanned painting including physical relief:

You can read more about Tim’s work and the technology at his blog here

  • Customer:Hi! [Places a large quantity of items on the counter.]
  • Retailer:Hello. [Begins to scan items.]
  • Customer:How much is it all in total?
  • Retailer:I'm not sure yet, sorry. I haven't finished scanning your items. [Continues to scan.]
  • Customer:How much do I owe you?
  • Retailer:No, not yet, sorry. [Again continues to scan.]
  • Customer:How much?
  • Retailer:
youtube

Beginner walkthrough that goes from scanning an image to very basic colouring.

5

Inside Me ( Nils Frahm - Me Rework)

Music video by Dmitry Zakharov of abstract forms takes place in a 3D scan of the artist’s body - video embedded below:

This project is based on a 3D-scan technique, which allows me to reproduce an image of my own body as a 3D object in a software. It is possible to view this object not just from outside, but also from the inside as a negative as well, which creates abstract shapes.
The colouration was generated with the help of colour data I took from a real picture.
The film reflects the invisible inner world of an individual, which owns a small universe in itself, created by experiences and feelings - as well in the digital world as in real life. We try to express ourselves and approach our world another being, but still, nobody can see in our souls entirely.
For me, the process of scanning is a very important part of this work itself.
The idea of digitising a body and hence the creation and deformation of its computer generated self, reflects the digital world we live in today. We create an alternative world, in which everybody can be what they want to be. In some way, it resembles to an act of creation.

More Here

anonymous asked:

When you draw on paper, how to you upload it to your computer and make it so nice.

ok well basically, to start, i use my Canon scanner, MP480 series-

sometimes i scan drawings at a higher resolution, if i plan to make them available as prints and such, but in any case, i use Image Capture on my Macbook

then i usually open the scan in iPhoto, and go to Edit, and Adjust

aaaand i adjust the levels however i feel is fitting. after this step, sometimes i’ll open the drawing in Paint Tool SAI and do more editing- filters, touching up, erasing the background, or adding color

it works until i have money to buy Photoshop OTL

half assed lineart tutorial thingy

LONG POST AHEAD

I tried Anon, I tried. Like I said it’s hard to do a tutorial about making linearts so I’ll just share what I know about different inking materials!

In all of the examples I worked with just ONE stroke per line, just to prove a point.


1. INKING WITH A FINELINER

in this example I used a letraset fine line drawing pen 0.3
This is how the pen/nib looks:

Example art:

This is probably the easiest thing for a beginner to use, it’s very easy to handle and comes in all sorts of sizes. It’s static, meaning that the lines will look the same no mather how hard I press. If I want thicker lines I need to do several strokes on the same place to get a thicker line.

+ great for small details

+ works on most papers

- Makes you waste time if you want those dynamic looking lines

- Not very ergonomic handle, is the main reason why I now have cts

2. INKING WITH A SEMI DYNAMiC FINELINER


in this example I used a Pentel Stylo Refill
This is how the pen/nib looks:

Example art:

This is a fineliner that is able to make thicker/thinner lines depending how hard you press the pen agains’t the paper. I won’t have to make several strokes for one line on that many places.

+ works on most papers

+ really good to use when making speed lines

- can shoot out ink on the sides, destroying all of your hard work

- hard to learn how to use

3. INKING WITH A BRUSH


in this example I used a Da Vinci size 2
This is how the brush and ink looks:

Example art:

VERY hard to learn how to control properly, but you get extremely dynamic lines that can work well to your advantage.

There’s almost no need to go over any lines more than once.

(If you want to learn how to use a brush and ink, make sure you have THICK ink. Not all ink is made to use for brushes.)

+ makes work 10 times faster

+ is very easy on your hand

- hard to control

- doesn’t work too well on papers that are too thin

4. INKING WITH A STEEL NIB

in this example I used a Kuretake G-pen
This is how the steel nib and ink looks:

Example art:

Also very hard to learn how to control. If you draw in a manga inspired style this is what I would recommend, this is what most manga artists use to make their comics. Also only one stroke needed and you will still be able to get those dynamic lines.

(contrary to the brush, when using a steel nib you want a really watery ink. Otherwise the ink will get stuck in the steel nib and you won’t be able to use it.)

+ comes in all sorts of sizes all depending on what technique you want to use

+ really good for speed lines

- will tear apart your paper if the paper is too thin

- hard to control

That’s all I can say without writing a fricking novel about this subject. I also didn’t mention anything about digital inking, because DUDE, have you seen my digital inking?

BONUS - SCANNING

As Anon also asked about the scanning (I think?) I’ll just add it as a little bonus. Here is how I prefer my scanner to scan

Black & white, and the resolution somewhere between 300-600.

I recommend B & W over Grayscale because it gives you really clean and crisp lines, as seen here:

When I scan it in grayscale it means that every little wrinkle on the paper will show, the sketch might show etc etc, in B & W mode there is just black and white, meaning that I don’t even have to spend time erasing my sketch (which also saves a TON of time, certainly if you are making comics)

Also it’s nice if you wanna be able to color your art quickly, and with quickly I mean to use the bucket tool. (bucket tool + me = BROTP )

the color will go all the way to the edges without leaving any gray pixels at all, compared to:

The grayscale one (even if it’s hard to see here because tumblr shrinks stuff…) will leave small gray pixels along the lines, making the end result a lot less clean looking.

NOW THAT IS THE END OF THIS. SORRY FOR THE HUGE POST AND HORRIBLE ENGLISH.