Dakota Dawn Backstage at the SS15 Rodarte Runway Show. Makeup by James Kaliardos for Nars, hair by Odile Gilbert for John Frieda, and Nails by Tracylee for Sally Hansen. Photo by Jake Rosenberg for The Coveteur.
As did the rest of this collection. The show marked a real return to form for Laura and Kate Mulleavy: Playing off aquatic themes, specifically the observation of tidal pools, they progressed more or less organically from terrifically commercial looks to ones that expressed just the kind of artful madness that people crave from their brand. By the time you arrived at the net mermaid dresses clotted with embroidery, you were back under the Rodarte spell. The tidal pool inspiration made a good channel for the Mulleavys’ Miss Havisham-esque hoarder streak—mimicking the way flotsam and jetsam collect in eddies, they embellished their dresses not with restraint, exactly, but with a sense of formal specificity. There was a painterly aspect to their patchwork frocks, the heavy embroidery a kind of impasto, revealing the hand.