a-woodland-faerie asked:

What causes a computer monitor to stop working when it is exposed to a magnet???

Well, first off, today’s LCD computer screens won’t get messed up by magnets (unless they’re EXTREMELY STRONG). But CRT (cathode ray tube) monitors can get messed up by magnets. Those more boxy screens work by firing electrons extremely precisely at millions of tiny phosphorescent dots. Hit the green one…green light…the red one…red light…hit the blue one…blue light. Pretty remarkable that we figured out how to turn that system into 50 years of color TV.  So, as you probably have guessed by now…electrons (being negatively charged) are affected by magnets. If you plop a magnet onto a CRT screen, it will either attract or repel the electrons, distorting the image. It’s pretty cool to watch. Less cool, though, is that the film behind the class can actually get permanently magnetized by a magnet, resulting in the screen becoming permanently distorted. So don’t do that unless  you don’t care about your monitor anymore.  Today’s LCD screens don’t have any flying beams of electrons for magnets to distort…but they’re still very cool. -Hank

My current college sublet battlestation: laptop + monitor + phone + long-range, wall-mounted wifi antenna = happy hacking.

  • ASUS N56VZ laptop (i7, GT650m; modified with 120 GB SSD, running Ubuntu, coding with VIM)
  • AOC E2425Swd monitor (24”, 1080p)
  • Samsung Galaxy SIII
  • Alfa AWUS036H Wifi Card (1000mW; shopping for a 4W in-line amplifier)
  • TP-Link Omni-Directional Antenna (2.4 GHz, 8dBi)

How Did a Magnet Just Break My Monitor?

If you’ve managed to break your boxy old computer monitor by sticking a magnet on it, you have a lot to learn about the 20th century technology of cathode ray tubes. 



Varanus varius

Common Name
Lace Monitor

Conservation Status
Currently unknown

Natural Habitat
The lace monitor lives in eastern Australian forests and coastal tablelands. Much of its time is spent up fairly large trees, although they usually come down to the ground to forage for food. When disturbed it sprints to the nearest tree and climbs to safety with great speed and agility.

Capable of climbing trees, they spent majority of their time in them , only coming down to ground for food or water. Like all “goannas” & monitors, they combine both predatory and scavenging behaviour when on the hunt for food .

They frequent both open and closed forests and forage over long distances (up to 3 km a day).

They are mainly active from September to May, but are inactive in cooler weather and shelter in tree hollows or under fallen trees or large rocks.

The lace monitor has a broad and varied diet including birds, insects, bird eggs, reptiles and small mammals. They will readily feed on carrion, including road kills, gorging themselves when the opportunity arises. After a large feed they are able to go for many weeks without feeding again.


All housing requirements should allow the captive animals to develop to it’s full potential and should aim to replicate all the needs that these animals would get in the wild.

The general consensus when it comes to housing these animals to put them in a 3x3 foot enclosure with a height of at least 180cm.The enclosure should be fortified and tested out to make sure it’s escape proof and that the Monitor’s can’t borrow out. Majority of monitor enclosures are held in wire mesh cages or a modified former avrie cages & again are ensured to be escape proof .Should only be housed individually but it is acceptable to places enclosures side by side.

Bark, commercially cleaned sand, synthetic grass, newspaper or butchers paper are all good clean substrates. A basking spot must be provided but all enrichment is up to the owners. Branches or logs for climbing are recommended , however make sure to make sure they are raised from the ground, perhaps leveled on a rock to prevent rotting on the underside ,increasing the shelflife of your logs.

Water is to be available all day every day , though be sure to provide a water bowl large enough and deep enough for individuals to completely submerge in. Bathing is essential for sloughing. Feeding them once a week, mice,rats ,fish, bones, reptiles, frogs, mammals, snails and eggs are all acceptable food. It has also been noted they have a fondness for Kangaroo meat.

For basking ,Monitors need daily exposure to UVB light. Use a high-output bulb, such as the Zoo Med 10.0, and position the basking site within 6-12 inches of it. Keeping the temperature in the enclosure around 20-30 degrees Celsius .

Though most Monitor’s can tame down, when interacting with the lizard , make sure to clean the area it is opposite to and if possible teach it to go to one section of the enclosure, to help minimise harm that could occur. Monitor’s can be very dangerous animals with their claws & whiplashing tail & those teeth inside those jaws.

Breeding Requirements

The Lace Monitor is usually a solitary species but will come together in spring and early summer during the breeding season. Most females breed every year and 4-6 weeks after mating will lay 6-12 eggs. The female will dig a hole in the side of a termite mound to lay her eggs. The termites then close up the hole, keeping the eggs safe and at a constant incubation temperature of 30 degrees Celsius. After 8-9 months the young will hatch and the female will actually return to dig them out.

Points of Interest

-Are said by a former zoo keeper to be pound for pound the strongest animal to be handled.