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Denim History, Presented by

MOHSIN SAJID

Owner and Creative Director of

ENDRIME

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On 30th April 2014 - Mohsin Sajid - Creative Director of ENDRIME - Give a special talk on Denim History and talk through his own Brand ENDRIME  at The Gallery @ Plymouth College of Art. UK

Mohsin was invited by Zowie Broach of BOUDICCA to take part in a Series of workshops - apart of the BOUDICCA - MOVE Event…

This Video captures the talk, Denim History and Ends on ENDRIME and modern ergonomics in denim wear.

This Video uses a lot of Sources of information, mostly from Mohsin own research thats covers in the presentation.

This Video covers: Key Historical Denim History / workwear today. New Denim Renaissance, cotton, yarn & denim manufacturing processes (including many videos of the cotton process – from harvest to yarn) Denim terminologies, strengths of using original shuttle looms, different weaves, different thicknesses and their strengths RHT, LHT etc. Selvage denims vs non Selvage and different types of washing treatments / finishes. Anatomy of a 5 pocket Jeans. Thread sizes and colours, metal sundries colours – in relation to denim shade.

Also Mohsin presented a selection of vintage pre 1920s pieces and a selection of 30 other denim samples from ENDRIME Archive, and talked through construction methods and special details in each jean – Plus various videos of denim manufacture from denim factories in USA, Turkey, China and Japan.

All the material was collected by Mohsin himself - But he also acknowledges were he got source material from:

Key sources for Slides are:

oki-ni www.oki-ni.com - Denim History Slides
Michael Allen Harris - Denim Historian’s Flicker Account - Rivet Pictures from 1873 levi’s Jean
Cory Piehowicz - Photographer
Denim from cowboys to catwalks by Graham Marsh, Paul Trynka and June Marsh - Photographs from this book -
Vintage Cone Denim Factory images © Cone Denim
Information from Denim College School, © Cone Denim 2005 ( which Mohsin Attended)
Uniqlo - Selvage Denim “Whats the BIG Deal about Selvage Denim anyway”
Denim Design Lab, by Brian Robbins - Scan of a page about Selvage.
EDWIN EUROPE - Pencil Sketchs of Weaves in “Nine Fundamental Weaves section”
Nine Fundamental Weaves - © Cone Denim
Tex Thread chart - by Gunzetal Hong Kong
Button Ruler, by Ching Fung, Hong Kong
Metal Finishes colour card by Lai Cheong, Hong Kong
Various Buttons images by, 45RPM, Oki-ni, Edwin Europe.
Levi’s Concealed Buttons
Denim Finishing Pictures, from DKNY Jeans - Hong Kong Office - Photos by Mohsin Sajid
3D Mould work stations - benches - Pictures taken at John Bull Factory, Kojima, Okayama, Japan Photos by Mohsin Sajid
Various - leather patches, from Duffer x oki-ni, Levis x oki-ni - Vintage Levis 201 canvas printed patches, 45RPM patch, Edwin Japan, and Wrangler.
Various - Back Pocket embs.
Edwin Europe - back pocket concept - 2005
Levi’s Nevada Jean - © Levi’s
Indigo Storage Tank Photos by Mohsin Sajid, Denim College School, © Cone Denim 2005 ( which Mohsin Attended)
ENDRIME  Bio - WWW.ENDRIME.COM

Videos used Key sources -

Stylesight - ENDRIME Video Part 1 - https://vimeo.com/90552533 © Stylesight
How Cotton is made by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcydGtjNPKo © Discovery Channel
Roy Denim Video © Roy Staper / SelfEdge http://www.selfedge.com/ - https://vimeo.com/16075230
Naked and Famous Video, featuring > Brandon Svarc and Bahzad Trinos https://vimeo.com/89472092 © Naked and Famous
Stylesight - ENDRIME Video Part 2 “Mohsin and his Machines” - https://vimeo.com/91648545 © Stylesight

Special Thanks to Hannah Jones Exhibitions and Events Officer at Plymouth College of Art.

The Opinions expressed in this video are Mohsin Sajid’s own. Mohsin Sajid has tried to Credit Everyone in Source Material - and done so with ethos of Transparency - No malicious intent - Mohsin Sajid has lots of respect for his Denim Community - and only wishes everyone shares knowledge.

Find out more about the event below.
http://www.vasw.org.uk/events/boudicca-move-.php
http://t.co/eRXfUCgUDB

WWW.MOHSINSAJID.COM
WWW.ENDRIME.COM
WWW.SHITDENIM.COM

#denimporn #denimhistory #endrime #boudicca #mohsinsajid

This Video was created for Educational use only. It was made by Plymouth College of Art ©
This Film was Shoot and Edited by Adam Howard | adam@anotherrobot.co.uk | WWW.ANOTHERROBOT.CO.UK

© All Rights Reserved

© Plymouth College of Art

www.plymouthart.ac.uk

Watch on endrime-co.tumblr.com

Exclusive Stylesight Video: Mohsin And His Machines

Denim History with Mohsin Sajid of 'Endrime'

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Last week, Mohsin gave us a whirlwind on denim history, with everything from how he started to the ins and outs of ‘proper denim’.
Mohsin started in the world of work with an internship with a store on the prestigious Saville row. To say he did well would be a tremendous understatement as he left as a senior designer for the company. This catapulted him into fashion and he then went onto work all over the world, including places like Italy, Germany and DKNY jeans in Asia. He currently consults for Timberland and of course his own company - Endrime.

There’s no doubt that Mohsin has a passion for Jeans. In fact i’m not sure I’ve met anyone quite so passionate about anything! Before his talk I was completely unaware of the intricate details of jeans. The purpose of rivets for example and the fascinating history behind them. I didn’t know how jeans were made, the different types and what makes a good pair. He stood firm in his belief that any good pair of jeans would have any overlocking, which is completely different to anything I’ve been taught. However,  he did back it up and showed how they can be finished to a higher standard without.
 

Mohsin brought around four tables worth of full jean samples to illustrate each point he made with a chance to examine them at the end. The scratch a sniff raspberry jeans and glow in the dark pair were a big hit from his friends company, ‘Naked and Famous’.

Part of his concept is to create jeans that are ergonomically designed and fit perfectly without having to be worn it at the knees for example. He creates darts at the knee bend to allow extra movement. Mohsin also has an eye for detail and adds touches like burnt leather branded tags, leather backed rivets, sketch style drawings of each machine that’s been used to make that pair of jeans and a washing diary. 

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8

Union Special Sewing machine

With any kind of industrial process, machines come and go and get replaced with time. The Denim Production process has quite an interesting history, as for the last 30 years not only have the way we produce denim been modernised, from lovely Shuttle looms to modern counterparts, but also the way we make jeans from older sewing machines and the transition to modern industrials sewing machines.

There are so many little touches which have been lost when we modernise. When i look at old vintage denim styles, one thing for me stands out, Wow that stitch is amazing ! Researching and learning which machines created the styles has become just as important for me as the fabric its made on. You got to understand the past to move forward. Its one thing to use to get Antique looking denim, made on old drapers looms, but a whole other thing using vintage machines to make them… I have been slowly buying up / and finding out what machines I need for my studio, and nothing seems to get me excited like a “Union Special” Sewing machines… Simple things like button holes, bar tacks, overlocking stitches, roping effects /skewing or buckering on hems of jeans, irregular tiny stitches are all super amazing and fresh today. Most Brands Like LVC / John Bull / Kapital and 45rpm are only using these types of machines to make there collections on, its easy to see why.

his old Levi’s denim pant, notice the small tight "SPI" stitches per inch…

Picture (C) Michael Allen Harris

modern denim is nothing like this…

Modern industrial sewing machines fall flat when it comes to these small details… These older machines were to slow and labor intensive operate, but produced very unique characteristics in the way the denim was produced, which cannot be fully replicated now. There are a number of amazing vintage sewing machines, but I just want to touch on two…

1st is the Union Special 43200G.

Picture credit: Victor & Sarah @ Raleigh Denim (beautiful set up guys !)

Info on Google & http://mohsinsajid.blogspot.de

Close

Little Sneak peak of when @stylesight visited @endrime back in Feb 2014 @mohsinsajid

Watch on shitdenim.com

Endrime www.endrime.com
By Mohsin Sajid, video directed by Sadia Rafique

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