Radical Knitwear
Yohji Yamamoto, autumn/winter 1996–1997. Layers of woollen knitting worn under a ribbed outer garment, the single-bed knitting of the underlayers left unfinished and curled, in contrast to the ribbed outer layer which does not curl. Multiple-layered clothing was common at this time but may now appear cumbersome. Relaxed long cardigans replaced the structured jacket as acceptable outerwear.

Knitwear in Fashion by Sandy Black

Artworks and Sculptural Form
Freddie Robins, Fourway, 1997. One of Robin’s earliest mutant sweaters, Fourway has four sleeves even spaced around the body. In all Robins’ knit works, the plausibility of the familiar knitwear construction at first takes in the viewer, who then begins to question the image portrayed. In the same series are Noway, a sweater with completely enclosed head, and Headcase, two sweaters umbilically joined together. Humour and fear of deformity merge in the work.

http://www.freddierobins.com/

Knitwear in Fashion by Sandy Black

Radical Knitwear
Yohji Yamamoto, autumn/winter 1998–1999. In contrast to McQueen, the simplicity of hand-knitting and the basic construction of Yamamoto’s pieces conjured a romantic innocence and naïveté, as the models hugged the comforting knitting around themselves. The shapes of the coat and dress are simple rectangles, the edges left to curl. The accompanying advertising campaign showed the clothes in strange, magical settings in the forest in full moonlight. 

Knitwear in Fashion by Sandy Black

We have invented anti rape nail polish, bras and panties that cannot be cut or torn off, whistles, pepper sprays that take pictures of our attackers, apps to text our loved ones when we don’t make it to our car, a barbed thing to insert into our vaginas to hurt our rapists, we know to yell “fire” rather than “rape”, because someone will be more likely to help us…

But I have not seen one thing that says “new program instituted to teach young boys not to be violent towards women”. Somehow, it is still our responsibility to constantly be on the DEFENSE, rather than to just stop the OFFENSE. Somehow, everyone keeps coming up with new and fun ways for us to defend ourselves (we made this taser PINK for you!) rather than instituting a social change so these inventions are not necessary.

I’m tired of hearing “just be happy someone is doing anything at all”, because that isn’t enough for me. Stop telling me to be satisfied with a fucking nail polish just because you don’t want to tell your sons that it’s not okay to hurt me.

Radical Knitwear
Hussein Chalayan, Scent of Tempest collection, autumn/winter 1997–1998. Chalayan’s somewhat provocative commentary on the contradiction between Islamic women’s dress and modern society was shown a year later in a collection featuring models dressed only in diminishing versions of the chador. This sweater with a slit mask was a forerunner, and created some controversy itself.

Knitwear in Fashion by Sandy Black

Materials, Structures and Processes
Martin Margiela, spring/summer 1996. This collection consisted of photographs of garments – a sequinned evening dress, a man’s overcoat, tweed skirts, print dresses, heavy woollen sweaters – overprinted in grey and sepia tones, evoking old photographs, onto white, fluid fabrics in viscose and cotton, then made into simple shapes. Knitted fabric again proves to particularly successful as a print. The anonymity of the veiled face adds to contradictory visual impact.

Knitwear in Fashion by Sandy Black

Text
Photo
Quote
Link
Chat
Audio
Video