via Eastern Surf Magazine

“Generally with winter north swells at the Lighthouse, the current is horrendous, resulting in un-swimmable conditions,” says Outer Banks photographer Matt Lusk. “This particular day was an exception, and I was able to swim out with a 50mm lens. The clouds were thick and blocking the sun most of the day, but I noticed them thinning out when the surf seemed to be pulsing. So I forced myself to put my wet wetsuit back on in 30-something-degree air and swim out a couple hours before sunset. The sun sets to the south in the winter and shines golden light right into the lefts at the Lighthouse. It was a little inconsistent, but I knew if I could line up with one of the boys it would be worth the swim. Sure enough, I linked up with Brett Barley on this heavy insider. I love the over-the-shoulder surfer’s perspective, so I try to sit out a little further to shoot down the face. Mission accomplished here.”

Photo: Matt Lusk