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My Quick Trick for Spot Concealing

The usual way most of us try to conceal a spot is to apply layer after layer of concealer over it in an attempt to completely cover up the discoloration.

Then because there is too much concealer on and it looks obvious, we try to blend it a bit so it fades into the rest of the skin nicely. 

Then the redness or darkness shows up again, and we go in with MORE concealer.

And the cycle goes on. By the time we’re done, we have a thick cakey layer of product over the blemish and we’ve effectively highlighted the very area we are trying to hide.

This is something I’ve learnt to do in recent years to cover spots WITHOUT tons of product, while keeping things looking as natural as it possibly can. While it won’t erase and hide big raised bumps 100% (nothing except a total absence of light is going to hide a raised texture because there will always be a bit of shadow cast by your spot), it works and lasts better than applying tons of product.

@seremela05, 1freebutttouch: What would be the point of showing you a zit and photoshopping it when I’m not selling anything or making any money from doing that? ;) You can click on the image to see a larger sized one. The zit is still there. Just not very visible. And it’s not a huge raised zit to begin with. Just mostly red. I do state above that you won’t be able to cover any large zit 100%.

You will need:

  • Your regular foundation (if you use one)
  • A full coverage concealer that is 1 shade yellower than your skin (if your skin is extremely yellow or olive toned, you might want to mix a tiny bit of green or light yellow color corrector into a regular high-coverage concealer).
  • A translucent setting powder (it should be very light and quite invisible after it sets into your base)
  • A pointed brush
  • A mineral powder concealer OR a two-way powder foundation

First apply your regular foundation or base if you usually do. Having a little product on in the area does help the concealer to fade and blend in nicely if you are using a thicker concealer.

Step 1: Whether you use a brush or your clean finger, apply concealer onto the blemish as well as slightly around it. Then use your finger to gently pat everything in so the concealer fades into the rest of your skin and isn’t very obvious.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I say use a slightly yellower shade than your skin, because anything more yellow than your skin is usually just enough to counter the red. If you use green, sometimes you over-correct the red, and end up with a grey patch instead, especially on medium to very dark skin-tones because we need a bit more pigmentation/warmth. If you are very pale, green works.

Step 2: Apply setting powder all over, using a flat brush in a patting motion.

A flatter brush picks up less powder (we don’t want an overly powdery patch), and a patting motion minimizes you rubbing off any of the concealer beneath, although a little of that will still happen regardless.

Usually we get frustrated because at this point, the blemish shows a little again, and it’s tempting to go back in with more concealer, which is how we end up with cakey spots, because we are layering so much creams and powder over each other. RESIST THE URGE AND READ ON!

Step 3: This is the part that’s changed the entire way I cover spots. Using a small pointed brush, pick up just a little full-coverage powder on the tips (you can use either a full-coverage powder foundation like MAC Studiofix or any full-cover loose mineral foundation or concealer). This powder should be your EXACT skin color.

Step 4: Very gently stipple and roll the tip of the brush around any dark mark that is still showing at this point, and you should be able to “air-brush” it away. And because you are applying powder on powder, instead of more cream (concealer), there is not going to be the same cakiness or smearing. Your makeup will also last quite a bit better.

Some people might ask: why not skip Step 2? That’s because your concealer (and any area that has more cream/liquid-based product) will grab a lot of powder and darken it slightly. The translucent powder soaks up the “moisture” first and prevents you from ending up with a dark, slightly odd patch over your spot when you apply your high-coverage setting powder later.

Plus, that translucent powder is all you need over the unblemished areas of your face and you should not go over it with full cover powder if you don’t need it. 

TOUCHING UP:

Through the day, if you want to touch up a bit because your makeup has faded slightly, touch up using Step 4 instead of applying more and more concealer.

But if your makeup has gotten too caky due to oil or sweat, it might be better just to clean the concealed area with an antibacterial wipe and then just repeat the steps above (it doesn’t take much time) so you have a fresh and natural-looking coverage. This means you’ll need to bring quite a bit of makeup out though, so I don’t recommend it unless you don’t mind. 

Don't apply concealer directly onto any lines around your eyes or crows feet, it will just crease. Use a smoothing, resurfacing primer before you apply your makeup instead.
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My Daily Undereye Concealing Routine

If you missed it on Dayre or just before Tumblr, here’s the undereye concealing routine I wrote about a few days back!

I use 2 types of concealers, and 3 steps, because a single product usually doesn’t have all the properties I need to brighten, correct, moisturize and stay put on the eye area. 

How to Clean your Makeup Brushes

Brushes are one of the most important steps in makeup application, there’s no point having expensive makeup and horrible brushes. With the right brushes every makeup application can look great.

The Masters Brush Cleaner and Preserver for Makeup Brushes

For brush cleaning I HIGHLY recommend the Masters Brush Cleaner & Preserver, which is designed for art brushes, but works fabulously for makeup brushes. It’s super gentle on the bristles, but removes EVERYTHING and leaves your brushes feeling super soft and smelling great. There’s a reason so many makeup artists love it. 

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My Base Routine (Foundation-Concealer-Powder-Blush) - Long Post!!

I figured it was a good time to demo my current base routine and give you some tips on tone correction along the way, since that’s an issue for my skin right now! Obviously, it’s not perfect skin, and I do get ravaged by premenstrual hormones from time to time. (Feel free to click and expand the photos!)

Obviously this isn’t the only way you should do your base. If your skin issues are significantly different, you’ll probably need to take what points work for you and throw out the rest. It’s just what I’ve found works well for me when I want a more perfected finish. It takes about 20-30mins to do my full makeup including eyes and lips, but then I enjoy the ritual when I have the time.

There are always days when I just throw on some concealer and powder and dash out the house. 

Note: This isn’t a tutorial for covering severe acne breakouts. There are a lot of vloggers on Youtube who have informative demo videos that would be much more useful, as well as better first-hand experience with specific foundations for covering acne, so I’d recommend searching there!

A sneak preview before we begin!

An introduction to Givenchy Teint Couture Long-Wearing (Illuminating & Comfortable) Fluid Foundation.

This was provided for review, and I wasn’t expecting to like the texture so much. It has medium coverage, covers most small and light flaws, sets to a demi-matte finish and LOOKS like real skin - not flat, matte, obvious makeup.

Shade 5 Elegant Honey is a little too deep for my NC25 skin (but the difference is not obvious off-camera). I just wanted to let you see the overall texture and coverage. I’d say this lightweight, long-wearing foundation is great for normal to combi/dry-oily skins if you don’t like a completely matte finish.

Teint Couture comes in 9 shades (7 in Singapore) and should be available in most countries where Givenchy is sold by August (21st for SG). Check at your local counter for details!

My Skin for your Reference:

I’ll say I’m lucky in the sense that I usually don’t have many active spots or lumps and bumps (texture and contours are hardest to conceal; discolorations are easier). The one on my chin has just gone down and scabbed over, and the one on my cheek is a 2-week-old mark that has no contour.

The main things I need to fix:

  • Unevenness: I have darkness around my eyes and slightly around the corners of the mouth, and hyperpigmentation from old spots that last sometimes for months.
  • Sheen: It’s not particularly oily, but even regular clear skin can catch the light, making it look “shiny” and the pores more obvious.
  • A bit of Scabbing: A recently-subsided spot means some flakiness and scabbing, which can be harder to conceal.
  • Veins/redness: Somehow hi-res photography and bright lights seem to bring out every little vein I never knew I had. These tend to concentrate around my inner cheeks and my nose because this is where I also pick at my pores…. (don’t follow my example!)

I also have slightly dry skin around my eyes that doesn’t take well to lots of heavy powder.

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TIPS TO MAKE YOUR LIPSTICK LAST LONGER:
1⃣ exfoliate lips ( e.l.f lip exfoliate or any lip exfoliator) to ensure no dead skin is on your lips
2⃣ apply a moisturizing, non-oily lip balm
3⃣matte out your lips with either concealer or foundation to ensure full pigmentation of lipstick
4⃣ line outer edge of lips with a concealer pencil for precision (Nyx wonder pencil works well and it’s a cheap option as well)
5⃣line lips with lip liner
6⃣ apply lip stick to the edges of lips
7⃣ fill in the rest of your lips
8⃣ place a tissue over lips and dust a translucent powder over your lips (Makeup forever’s HD powder works great!)
9⃣ touch up with one final layer of lipstick and you are good for hours !

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