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Caller Talks About Chloramine Coming to Pennsylvania Water Systems

Uploaded by TheAlexJonesChannel on Dec 27, 2011

Caller calls Alex about chloramine coming to pennsylvania water systems to replace chlorine.

EPA Forces Chloramine in Water: Why Isn't Anyone Upset by This?!

The EPA is announcing that Tulsa, OK will become the latest city forced to add chloramine to the public drinking water. Just one question: WHY AREN’T PEOPLE UPSET BY THIS?!

The story posted below does not give a reason why chloramine—that’s chlorine mixed with ammonia—is being added to the public drinking water in yet another American city. I guess the EPA can just put whatever dangerous, deadly chemicals they want in water (which only makes up 80% of our bodies, so no big) and people will JUST DRINK IT WITHOUT QUESTION. After all, it’s only the government, and they always have our best interests at heart, right?

Another wonderful addition is the clause that it is only harmful to people who care for fish and those requiring dialysis! If you are already on dialysis, don’t drink the chloramine water (they have you where they want you); if you aren’t on dialysis, you probably will be AFTER YOU DRINNK THE CHLORAMINED (read: “chloraminated”) WATER!

Would you pour a nice cold glass of Lysol and drink that too? Do we not already have enough chemicals being forced into our water supply in the U.S.? Water fluoridation has been proven time and again in recent decades to be quite dangerous and bad for people’s health in a myriad of lovely, life-reducing ways. It calcifies the pineal gland, it can cause bone cancers and brain cancers, and Nazis used to add it to the water supplies of concentration camps to keep the unfortunate prisoners there docile so they would not attempt escape. Now the EPA is adding more nasty stuff to the water.

Please people. Beyond simply buying yourself a reverse-osmosis water filter, should we also not QUESTION THE SYSTEM on exactly *why* we need to consume all of these nasty chemicals on a daily basis? Oh, and don’t forget—you and your family are bathing in it too.


EPA standards force city of Tulsa to change water-treatment practices

A Fluoride-Free Pineal Gland is More Important than Ever

Fluoride Action Network

New Post has been published on 1800Pools Blog

New Post has been published on

Can You Sanitize a Swimming Pool Using UV Rays?

[I was scouring the web and found this interesting article on how a public pool in Hong Kong uses a UV treatment process to sanitize their water.]

Hong Kong’s Victoria Park Swimming Pool Complex Using UV to Treat Indoor Pools and Rainwater – Oct 22 2013 11:16 AM – Hanovia Ltd – Envirotech Online

The Victoria Park Swimming Pool Complex (VPSPC) in Hong Kong has recently installed 21 Hanovia (UK) UV disinfection systems to treat the water in three of its indoor pools and to disinfect harvested rainwater. The UV systems were installed by Jardine Engineering Corp, with the help of SmarTech HVAC & Engineering, Hanovia’s local distributor.

[Jardine Engineering Corp is a company that provides engineering services across Asia.]

The main 50 metre competition pool, a 30 metre multi-purpose pool and an indoor Jacuzzi are now all treated with UV. In addition, recycled rainwater used for cleaning floors and toilet flushing is treated with UV prior to use.

“This is a very significant project for us and one that shows just what our UV technology is capable of,” commented Ms Ying Xu, Hanovia’s Asia-Pacific Manager. “VPSPC chose Hanovia because, in their opinion, it’s the ideal technology for swimming pool water treatment. UV not only destroys microorganisms but also removes chloramines, resulting in crystal clear water with no accompanying ‘chlorine’ smell.

“Our UV systems can also be sized to handle a huge variety of flow rates, from as high as 1700m3/hour in the main competition pool to the small flow rates required for rainwater treatment – this was an essential requirement. I think the final clincher was our fantastic reputation in the swimming pool industry and the hard work of SmarTech. ”

Chloramines (also known as combined chlorine) are the unpleasant by-products associated with chlorinated pools; they lie as a vapour over the pool surface and cause eye and skin irritations and have a strong odour which is unpleasant for both bathers and staff. Chloramines not only put people off visiting indoor pools – they can also be a health risk if inhaled regularly. A recent paper in the European Respiratory Journal linked high levels of asthma in children with swimming in outdoor chlorinated pools.

Chloramines are also highly corrosive and are known to cause significant damage to the physical structures of some indoor pools, which can raise safety concerns. Medium pressure UV eliminates the problem of chloramines almost entirely due to its wide wavelength spectrum, which destroys mono-, di- and tri-chloramines. A reduction in chloramines also means less wear and tear on the building and less maintenance and repair bills – as well as a safer building.

UV is ideal as not only does it act as a powerful disinfectant in its own right – minimising the use of chlorine – it also destroys any chloramines produced as a result of the residual chlorination, ensuring a healthier environment for swimmers and staff alike. Less chloramines also means lower water bills as less water is needed to dilute and flush the pool. UV is also a clean technology, with no by-products of its own.

Another major benefit of Hanovia’s UV systems is power switching, which optimises power use only when it’s actually needed. This can have a significant impact on a pool operator’s energy bill.

According to the VPSPC management, the UV systems are easy to use and are low-maintenance. “The control system is simple and stable, meaning we don’t need to actively monitor the performance of the UV systems,” said a spokesperson. “We chose Hanovia on the recommendation of other users and have been very pleased with the technology. We do an annual clean of each UV chamber, but this hardly seems necessary as each one remains almost like new. It is also extremely compact.” Compared to ozone treatment, UV is up to five times cheaper to maintain and requires only 1/10 of the space.

The use of UV for rainwater treatment is an interesting and growing application for the technology, particularly in areas of relatively high rainfall such as Hong Kong. Capturing this rain for reuse not only makes environmental sense – freeing up municipal water supplies for domestic and industrial users – it also makes financial sense for the local municipality.

Of the 21 Hanovia UV systems in use at VPSPC, 19 are medium pressure SwimLine systems: eight for the main swimming pool (seven duty, one standby), 11 for the diving pool (10 duty, one standby) and one for the Jacuzzi. One low pressure AF3 UV system is used for rainwater treatment. All the UV systems are located after sand filters in the pool and rainwater treatment processes.

[It would be great to see more of this type of technology in the United States to sanitize a swimming pool.]

Click here to view original web page at  



I cannot wait to get away from this city:

[Water Department reverts back to chloramine July 1st]
The City of [       ]  Water Utilities Department will revert to its normal disinfectant in the public water supply on Monday, July 1, having completed its temporary conversion to free chlorine. In the process of converting back to chloramine, there may be a change in the taste and odor of the water during the first week. Once chloramine disinfection is back in full process, the taste and odor of the water should return to what it was prior to the free chlorine disinfection program of the last four weeks. Chloramine disinfection uses a mixture of chlorine gas and liquid ammonium sulfate. Water customers who have kidney dialysis machines or aquariums are encouraged to contact their equipment suppliers to ensure they have the correct equipment for chloramine removal.
The periodic and temporary conversion from chloramines to free chlorine is a normal procedure for public water systems that ensures water safety in distribution lines and the
highest quality of drinking water. Because free chlorine is a stronger disinfectant, a noticeable chlorine odor and taste can occur.

Mine enemy, I know thy face and I dub thee "chloramine."

The tag line for this blog is “stumbling through homebrewing.” Perhaps I wrote that with a bit of affected humility, as I thought I was doing a great job with homebrewing and I wanted to share how great of a job I was doing with everyone.  But it turns out I was unwittingly stumbling the whole time. At least in one aspect, and probably in many more yet to be discovered.

A little over four weeks ago, I primed and bottled my Christmas beer:  Ubupe (meaning “gift”) Mint Chocolate Stout.   I was very excited to pop open the first bottle this past Sunday, in hopes of sipping a lovely Christmas beer while bottling the Mpriripiri Mexican Chocolate Stout.

Didn’t quite work out the way I wanted.

Why?  Because the Ubupe was terrible. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted a beer quite so awful, and I became acquainted with a fair amount of skunked PBR in my college days.  This beer was the worst.  Taking a sip of this beer was like gnawing on a rusty nail.

I was very disappointed, because I haven’t succeeded in creating a truly enjoyable beer since my third batch, and I was hoping this would be the one that bucked the trend.  But instead it was the worst yet.

After the initial period of angry frustration and feelings of hopelessness, I set out on a quest to figure out why my beer tasted like metal.  Most of what I found just didn’t seem applicable to my brew process.  All of the usual sources limited the causes for metallic off-flavors to:

unprotected metals dissolving into the wort but can also be caused by the hydrolysis of lipids in poorly stored malts. Iron and aluminum can cause metallic flavors leaching into the wort during the boil. The small amount could be considered to be nutritional if it weren’t for the bad taste. Nicks and cracks ceramic coated steel pots are a common cause as are high iron levels in well water. (How to Brew)

This just didn’t make sense for my beer. My water did not have a high level of iron, my pot is sufficiently oxidized to prevent any aluminum from leaching into the wort, and anyways, if there was metal in my water or if it was a brew kettle issue, wouldn’t I have tasted this before bottling?

My search was getting more and more frantic, since I was planning on brewing in a few short days and the last thing I wanted was to create another 5 gallons of undrinkable beer. A post on yielded no immediate results, but as I was reviewing past posts concerning metallic aftertastes, I decided to take a closer look at my water.

Water.  It’s the single biggest ingredient in beer. And I had paid it no attention.  The books I read actually TOLD me not to pay attention to water until I had mastered everything else.  I read that sentence and I moved on.  I missed the part that said don’t pay attention to water, unless…..

Unless you have chloramine.  Chloramine?  What’s chloramine??  It is apparently a relatively new form of disinfectant added to the public water supply.  Chlorine has long been the de rigueur disinfectant/sanitizer, but its volatile nature (it will dissipate with boiling or even if you let your water sit out in a bucket overnight) caused problems for utility companies.  This problem was solved by my newest enemy. 

Chloramine in its natural state is a liquid, so it does not disperse naturally, even if you boil it.  This makes it great for the public utilities, but awful for homebrewers.  When chloramine interacts with the beer ingredients during the beermaking process, chlorophenols are formed.  What are chlorophenols?  Well, there is a scientific definition, but the laybrewer’s definition is: things that make your beer taste terrible.  And since the flavors come into being during the fermentation/conditioning process, you’ve very little indication of the fact that the off flavors are coming from your water.  Chloramine is a stealthy sneaky killer of enjoyable homebrew.

Cholophenols also have a ridiculously low taste threshold.  Their gag-inducing presence can be detected at as little as 10 parts per billion.  Horrible. 

But generally, off-flavors from chloramine are perceived as band-aid, medicinal, harsh, or astringent.  Metallic is not the typical flavor.  However, chlorophenols take different forms based on the other ingredients of the beer.  Some are worse than others.  I finally felt like I had discovered the true cause of Ubupe tasting like a 1970s VW rabbit tailpipe when I found the following on Wikipedia, under the chloramine entry: “Chloramines should be removed from water for dialysis, aquariums, and homebrewing beer. Chloramines can interfere with dialysis, can hurt aquatic animals, and can give homebrewed beer a metallic taste.”

Aha! So how do you get rid of them?  Easy peezy. Adding a quarter campden tablet (potassium metabisufite) to your brewing water and in less than a minute…. no more chloramine.

So with my latest enemy vanquished, I move on to my brewday, when I tried and mostly failed to brew a Belgian Golden Strong Ale.  There will be more on this latest stumble of mine later, perhaps titled “The case of Why the heck is my efficiency 15 points lower than it usually is?”

Until next time, happy drinking!

anonymous said:

How do you feel about people who don't buy water conditioner and just leave water out 24 hours before putting it into their tank?

They’re harming their animal(s), because that doesn’t work.

That technique is back from the early days of fishkeeping where really we didn’t know all that much about it. The theory was that letting it sit for 24 hours would let the chlorine evaporate out - which wasn’t entirely true, it can take up to a week for chlorine to fully leave the water depending on the water volume and other factors.

And these days, most water supplies use chloramine, not chlorine. chloramine does NOT evaporate out no matter how long you leave the water to sit.

Plus, most tap water also contains dangerous heavy metals that are also toxic to fish, and that water conditioner removes.

Water conditioner is a necessity, unless you have well water and you know 100% what is in it.

( amortean )

"Nobody told me bleach and ammonia mixed together created toxic chloramine vapors."

     Spirits. The bitch was trying to kill him.
          ——— He made a mental note to change locks again.

     ”What did you think was going to happen?”

anonymous said:

Hi! How would you recommend making sure the water temp matches the tank temp during water changes? And also, do you believe in letting your water age for 24 hours prior to adding it to the tank? Thank you!

You can just get close when changing the water - I personally will just feel with my hands to feel if the water is similar to tank temperature. (Eventually you get pretty good at it). It doesn’t have to be perfectly exact, as long as you’re in the ballpark.

And no, I don’t do that… The water aging thing came from back in the early days of fishkeeping when people would let the chlorine ‘evaporate out’ for 24 hours before using it in the tank, no other conditioning. Not only did that not work perfectly at the time (it wouldn’t have gotten ALL the chlorine out in that short period) but now that we use chloramines in our water instead of chlorine, it doesn’t work at all.

Using a commercial conditioner will remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals and instantly make the tank safe for fish. No need to let the water sit.

There are maybe other reasons for letting the water sit in individual cases, like at home my water would have a PH of 8.2 out of the tap but after sitting for a few hours would settle down to 7.2. But it was never expressly necessary (honestly it was probably just a ‘right out of the tap’ false reading). So nah I don’t believe in ‘aging’ the water really, outside of special circumstances.

anonymous said:

hi, i do daily water chenges in my fish bowls because i know that the bowls i currently keep my betta in are farrr to small. i usually add a dose of Top Fin Betta Bowl Conditioner and Aqueon Betta Bowl Plus. I ran out of the betta bowl conditioner this morning and was wondering if i could leave it out of tomorrow's water, or if it would stress the boys not to have it in the water.

Water conditioners remove chlorine and chloramines from the water, which are toxic to fish. Dosing just one is enough - as long as you follow the dosage instructions on the bottle and don’t under-dose.

And you probably know this but I’m going to say it anyway, please get your babies into properly sized homes, heated and filtered.

anonymous said:

Ok I will buy a new water conditioner. How can I tell if it expired or not since I can't seem to find an expiration date? Like what would using expired water conditioner do to my tank or my fish so that I would know? I will probs get a new bottle tomorrow btw :)

I don’t know exactly what it would DO per se because I’ve never had it happen but I know expired conditioners just stop working or stop working as efficiently (doesn’t remove ALL the chloramines etc). I know prime expires, it may differ with others but I’m going to guess it is similar.