Cad & The Dandy: Sport coat #1

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This last Saturday I visited Cad & The Dandy tailors on Savile Row to order my first tailor made garment – sport coat in this case. As I already have a nice fitting blue/navy suit and I am not obligated to wear a suit on a daily basis I thought the sport coat would be a better choice. I really like the freedom of business casual wear which gives you much more opportunities to mix and match things you wear.

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The Cad and The Dandy then. They are quite new to the Savile Row area as they opened their premises there this year (The Lucky Number – 13 Savile Row, 13th of June 2013), although being on the market since 2008. It has to be clear that I have not went for a fully bespoke, I don’t like the half/semi bespoke terms, but for a machine stitched coat. C&TD offers three different options of making a suit/coat which should not be confused and must be clearly stated. The machine stitched suit is a half canvassed one, created using a unique paper pattern with a little of hand work done. Areas where hand work is done include stitching the lapel and inserting the arm head. The whole process of putting the suit/jacket together is done either in UK or overseas in a factory. Same applies to the fully bespoke suit as they have their coat makers both in UK and overseas. C&TD main cutter is John DeBoise, who also owns his own company Castle Tailors, and the other one is Michael Brown.

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The other two options are half hand stitched and fully hand stitched which are available for additional 200 and 400 pounds. It is fair, and the C&TD are, to say that the ‘machine stitched’ garment is not entirely made by hand in their Savile Row workshop as someone would have thought. Even though we are visiting the true tailor one has to be informed about the real process behind it. Just for the sake of summary. My coat is a made to measure garment, that is done using unique paper pattern.

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I had been struggling with finding a well fitted jacket for a long time. One of my favourite RTW suit makers is Suit Supply who created big enough variety of sizes so I can finally find the one fitting me really well. I can highly recommend them when you have a pretty common posture, nothing unnatural. Myself, having quite slopped and forward shoulders, had to be really careful with arms and collar fit. This is the reason why I finally decided to take the next step and go for MTM. The choice, after having read positive opinions about them, was easy – Cad and The Dandy.

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There are now 5 jackets in my closet, both suit and sport coats, and all are blue/navy in colour. It was a high time for something different, especially considering the Fall season that is coming. I wanted something to match light grey flannel trousers or more casual khaki twill. I hesitated between herringbone and hopsack fabric as both are great for sport coats in my opinion because of the texture of the cloth. It makes it more casual and interesting at the same time. I found a picture of Prince of Wales wearing a suit in grey Glen check (Prince of Wales check) which really looks beautifully. That was it. This fabric is classic enough to make a first MTM jacket out of it and interesting enough to be a great sport coat to match odd trousers. I really like the Dugdale Bros Royal Classic range fabric and finally went for no 9745 Lighter Grey Hopsack Check with Blue Overcheck (I would not be myself if it wasn’t with something blue in it). I saw a jacket made by C&TD at their showroom and it is really amazing (see the photo above).

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That was fast then. The next step was to take a measurements of myself. It was done by Ian Meiers one of the founders of the firm. We first discussed the style of the jacket. It will be a single breasted, 2 buttons, with a double vents jacket. I decided to have a cutaway flap pockets as they definitely will add more vertical lines to the jacket and this is what I need being only 5’9’’ tall. One button was even under consideration but I decided to stay at the classic level for now. We will see how it will turn out. The fabric has already a check on it, being not very visible it definitely adds some horizontal lines as well. I hope to not be very worried about this. We also added a handmade stitching at the lapels in order to achieve a nicer and more fitted look of the front of the jacket. Ian started with measuring my chest and hip size, then the back, the total length and the sleeve. I prefer to have the sleeves ½-1/4, actually closer to ½)of an inch shorter than the shirt cuff as this I think make your arms look longer and is beneficial for the whole posture, shorter man again. I tried a RTW jacket in similar size, too big to be honest, and Ian pinned it in order to create a similarly fitting jacket compared to my future one. I could feel the high cut arm holes which was as desired in order to provide an ease of movement for my arms. It won’t be very tight at the waist though, as I am, and no one is, only standing in the jacket. It should allow for some movement still being nicely tailored. The length of the jacket would match the center point of my hand, the place where the fingers start or the bending point of my thumb. Still these are only details and can be adjusted after the fitting. The pattern will be created based on these measurements  (and many more that Ian has taken) and send to a factory in China. It should be ready for the fitting in 7-8 weeks. After that we will consult the fit and make any adjustments that are needed, at Savile Row premises. I really look forward to that and can’t wait for the end of November to come.

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That was the first part, about choosing the fabric and taking measurements. The second – shortly after the fitting.

Cad and The Dandy,
13 Savile Row, First Floor,
London, W1S 3NE

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Cad and the Dandy + Ringhart = All the colours!

This week I had the opportunity to pop into the Cad and the Dandy. My sartorially inspired motive, to order a new bespoke shirt. 

Upon arriving at their Savile Row showrooms I warmed myself in front of their fire and then delved into the mammoth book of swatches from Ringhart. 

After flipping through the multitude of colourful fabrics with C&D’s Sebastian I decided on a rather simple sky blue Oxford, which was slightly more adventurous than the white Oxford I was initially contemplating. However there were so many cloths on offer I think I’ll need a few more shirts just to fully explore the range…

I’ve had a shirt made by C&D before but I wanted to just tweak a few measurements and Sebastian was happy to oblige. As it turned out we narrowed the shoulders and lengthened the sleeves as well as adjusting the configuration of my shoulders. 

After the rest of the details were nailed down talk turned to velvet dinner jackets. But that’s for another time. 

I’m looking forward to seeing the finished shirt!

Coming your way soon !! @andymurphy333 @foster_and_son @cadandthedandy @charlieallen_tailors @johnnyaallen @hardyamieslndn @antoniaede @alexanderrossbespoke @bensonandclegg @darren.tiernan_budd_shirts_ @gjcleverley @chittleboroughandmorgan @edeandravenscroft @fullenglishbreakfast @gieveslondon @11savilerow @stevenhitchcock @kathrynsargentbespoke @pjrobinsonandson @andrewjmusson @stowers_bespoke @orlebarbrown @pierrebalesi @jordenbarratt @joshuakanebespoke

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Tailor at work #tailoring #tailor #savilerow #london #bespoke #cadandthedandy #cad&thedandy #blueloafers #mikolajek

Wildsmith shoes: the first steps

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As you may already know, we have recently bought the shoemaker, Wildsmith, the second oldest shoemaker in London. The business is run and part owned by Chay Cooper, a second generation shoemaker with over 20 years experience in hand-made luxury footwear. A venture into this arena is a natural progression for us and one to which we will apply our C&D ethos - offering the very best of traditional British style and quality at competitive prices. Shoes are available to buy from www.wildsmith.com, both C&D locations and selected retailers around the world.

To mark the relaunch of the company, Chay will be spending two days in London, at our City location on Thursday 19th September, and at our Savile Row location on Friday the 20th of September, to show the ready to wear range and offer advice on style and fittings.

Consultations are available between 11am and 7pm. For further information or to make your booking simply email info@cadandthedandy.co.uk or telephone 020 7434 4344 for Savile Row and 020 7283 1975 for the City.

Founded in London in 1847, Wildsmith quickly established a reputation for excellence in fine footwear, garnering them an elite, sophisticated clientele which included Kings, Princes and Presidents - notably King George Vl, Prince Charles and John F Kennedy - Lords and Generals, entertainment legends such as David Niven, Cary Grant and Adam Faith, and a continued loyal following from a wide range of discerning clients with the most exacting style, quality, fit and comfort requirements.

In this newest phase of the Wildsmith story, we will continue to work with the skilled craftsmen of Northamptonshire who have over 100 years of experience in making exceptional boots and shoes. Resolute in our mission to keep the integrity of this historic brand sound we aim to ensure that the quality and attention to detail that has become synonymous with Wildsmith footwear throughout the world remains undiminished.

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