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SARTORIA ROSSI - COLLEZIONI AUTUNNO INVERNO 2012-2013

(FALL WINTER COLLECTION)

Draw inspiration directly from Italy. Unfortunately their online store is under construction, but that doesn’t mean you can’t find similar looks at menswear stores in your area. Also, custom clothiers should be able to find nearly identical fabrics.

Turtlenecks? The Playbook says yes. They have slowly started to appear this season, which means we will be seeing even more next fall and winter.

@GentsPlaybook

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When considering the most stylish men of the year, you have to take into account both formal and casual looks. Many celebrities - actors, athletes, musicians or otherwise - nail their red carpet appearances with the help of stylists and top designers, but drop the ball when it comes to casual wear. The true gentleman always displays the ability to look as stylish in dressed down attire as he does in a suit. For the last 16 weeks, Tom Brady has been reminding the world that no one does so better than him.

There’s something special going on in each of the seven looks above from his post-game press conferences this season. Notice Brady doesn’t experiment too much with color - he keeps it simple with a lot of black, grey, navy and white. He truly has mastered the timeless look of a grey suit, white shirt and white pocket square - both with a black solid tie (pic 1) or as a 3-piece without a tie (pic 7). Showcasing his ability to dress seasonally, both the grey flannel suit (pic 1), along with the plush black velvet jacket (pic 3) are staple pieces of a gentleman’s fall and winter wardrobe. Adding a touch of class to every formal look, Brady never forgets a white cotton pocket square.

As for his casual wear selections, what I appreciate most is his love for the shawl collar cardigan and opting for a black dress shirt instead of his usual white. The black shirt really adds a unique touch as a contrasting color underneath the grey and winter white sweaters. Anyone can wear a sweater over an open dress shirt - but the black stands out nicely,a long with the shawl collar and heavier weight knitwear.

The tuxedo is already back. Today a guy in a black suit faking it really sticks out, and not smartly. The creative black-tie set still tries to update it, with notch lapels, flap pockets and long ties, but the best-dressed guys show them up in proper kit. Red carpet photos are an argument for the cummerbund, recently discarded by modernists in black hip-huggers. Look at all that white shirt under their jacket button. Sorry, that’s not even semiformal. Braces or suspenders elevate tux trousers. If they have belt loops or cuffs, they’re not tux trousers. You might consider giving up belts altogether with suits. True, many Wall Street criminals have worn despicable suspenders, but that’s no reason to renounce the superior fit of trousers hung from the shoulders and not tied up at the hips. If you haven’t experienced that kind of suspense, there is a certain kind of freedom you don’t know. Boxers and suspenders are liberators of maleness itself!
— 

Glenn O’Brien aka “The Style Guy”

@lordrochester / glennobrien.com

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Navy double-breasted wool Bowery coat by Billy Reid

a.k.a. The Bond Coat worn by Daniel Craig in “Skyfall”

The most versatile of the 3 Billy Reid coats I have featured simply because navy goes with everything. This timeless outerwear piece made it Italy stands out from all other navy overcoats with the signature brown leather undercollar - don’t hesitate to keep the collar up as Bond himself did in the movie. “True to size” fit once again - and it just went on sale for under $700 so act quickly.

Where to Buy?

http://bit.ly/UISpjC

The Gentleman's 5: When it Comes to Suiting

1. Classy is always better than gaudy. The idea is to stand out and be memorable without being overbearing.

2. An immaculately-fitted suit of inexpensive material is miles ahead of a very expensive ill-fitting one.

3. Know what looks good on you and works with your build. A particular pattern or style fit may look better on you than someone else and vice versa.

4. You will always feel more confident at an event being overdressed than underdressed. If you’re not sure men will be wearing ties, bring one anyways. You can always take it off.

5. Don’t be afraid to splurge when it comes to suiting. One finely tailored or fully custom made suit will hold its value more than buying two or three of lesser quality.

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Camel double-breasted camelhair Bowery coat by Billy Reid

A beautiful double-breasted look in pure camelhair with brown leather accents under the collar made in Italy. With a “true to size” fit, this is the perfect outer layer for any casual or dressy outfit - an amazing color combo with the teal sweater all by American designer Billy Reid who was named the 2012 Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA) Menswear Designer of the Year.

Where to Buy?

http://bit.ly/VCLo3W

The Gentleman's 5: James Bond "Skyfall" - A Sartorial Snapshot

Throughout “Skyfall”, each outfit stays true to the timeless appeal of James Bond with an emphasis on fit and proportion, along with some modern day touches. All suiting is by Tom Ford, while Craig himself, along with the Bond style team had input on each outfit.

While helping to select the style of suit for Bond to wear, Craig wanted two things: he wanted each suit to perfectly hug his body so it would move along with his frame during the action sequences, and he wanted the design to be forgettable.

To keep the shirt collar in place at all times, Tom Ford put 007 in a nontraditional tab collar, which has a button fastening between collar points (pictured below). Although I am not a huge fan of this type of collar, I am an advocate of switching things up. For example, if you prefer a spread collar then it makes sense for the majority of your shirts to be as such, but don’t shy away from adding a narrower width, wider spread, tab, or club collar into your rotation - it will show your style has versatility.

The Gentleman’s 5 breaks down the five main looks of Daniel Craig as James Bond:

1. As for Tom Ford designing a forgettable suit, that’s like asking Christina Hendricks to wear a dress that hides her cleavage. To honor such wishes, Ford veered away from his trademark wide peak lapels and put Craig in slimmer notch lapels more proportionate to his build, along with a slimmer tie. Although simpler, a light grey suit with solid white shirt and pocket square all of impeccable fit will never lack style. Putting this look into action, the first thing he does after jumping onto a partially torn moving train is fix his cuff! That’s how the true gentleman handles his business!

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2. For his second suit choice, they kept the same construction of the suit, but opted for a light blue shirt and pocket square to match Craig’s eyes. The blue and grey hues once again keep it sharp and simple.

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3. When it comes to designing black tie attire, Tom Ford can’t help but make anything unforgettable.  In true Bond fashion, the look and cut of this black shawl collar tuxedo screams elegance: perfectly tailored in the most luxurious of fabrics. The only thing I don’t understand is why they put him in a shirt without studs - in previous films Craig wore a fly-front shirt which covered buttons and thus didn’t need studs. You should never see white buttons in a tuxedo shirt. Yes, I just criticized James Bond.

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4. From one shawl collar tux to the next - this time in midnight navy with a black satin collar.  Gorgeous. This was my favorite look of the entire movie - by dressing it down without a tie and unbuttoned collar it’s a completely unique take on wearing a tuxedo. This is a great example of taking an amazing piece in your wardrobe and wearing it several different ways. This jacket can be paired with both matching navy tuxedo pants or black tuxedo pants, with or without a bow tie - that’s 4 different outfits right there; talk about versatile.

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5. When choosing a topcoat for one of the final scenes, Craig himself was asked for his input and said he knew designer Billy Reid made some nice pieces. The style team brought in several and he chose this navy coat with leather accents around the collar (http://bit.ly/XFTIns). While 007’s was single breasted, Billy Reid made the same style in a double breasted version along with a “Bond peacoat” which is still available on backorder http://bit.ly/QnLKZU.

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Scott Disick taking young Rob Kardashian to school in the menswear department.

Everything about Scott’s look (as always) is impeccable. His custom made 3-piece wide peak lapel suit is made of the finest cloth, accompanied by a perfect windsor knot and spread collared shirt. The sheen on the suit makes him stand out even more which is ideal for someone who is constantly photographed by the paparazzi. His pocket square is simple and pulls in the shirt and tie perfectly. Few do it better than Lord Disick. 

With style icons Kanye West and Scott in his immediate circle, Rob’s wardrobe is sure to get progressively better.

The Gentleman's 5: Current Fall Trends

1. The denim dress shirt 

As a fresh alternative to the everyday cotton dress shirt, I’m starting to see more denim and chambray dress shirts paired with suits, both with and without ties, or with jeans and a sport coat. This look has been in and out of men’s fashion magazines the past couple of years and I must say I’m a fan. More commonly worn untucked with jeans or pants, it’s nice to see the shirt applied to dressier outfits, which shows an edgier style while remaining classy. The crisp, dark blue and texture of the shirt stands out nicely, adding style without being too much. 

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Where to buy:

Club Monaco

http://bit.ly/OOP05h 

http://bit.ly/RLevl4

J.Crew

http://bit.ly/QwNzXf

2. Cropped trousers 

I’ve been seeing this look all over New York City for a while now - super trendy, trying-to-stand-out look. I see it done often with no socks or bright, bold colored socks. The main reason I dislike this trend is simple: it immediately draws attention away from the outfit as a whole, directly onto the ankles. I actually get angry I see this so often - I don’t understand why men would pay so much money for fine clothing and choose to have their pants two to three inches too short.  I don’t get too mad though, because the more men doing this just makes the true gentlemen look even better.

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I understand the desire to stand out among the crowd, but that goal can actually be achieved easier by wearing impeccably fitting trousers of high quality fabric at the proper length. Don’t ruin what otherwise could be a great outfit.

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3. Quilted vests 

Fall is all about layering - thin v-neck sweaters over a dress shirt with your suit or sport coat? Absolutely. Wearing a quilted vest under your suit jacket? Completely disagree - sorry GQ.  The argument for this trend is that the vest adds warmth without adding much bulk as we enter the colder months although not yet cold enough for an overcoat. The truth is, a quilted vest is a very nice casual piece but it should never see the light of day anywhere near a suit.

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The second look is even more painful to look at given that it’s messing up what would be the perfect fall look (minus the hat): Glen plaid sport coat with a gingham shirt, tie, 1” tie bar (from @thetiebar) and dark blue denim.

4. Double monk straps

One of my favorite styles of men’s dress shoes is the double monk strap. Over the last 2 years these have been made by every high end designer and this year there may be as many different styles produced as regular lace-ups and loafers. I love the construction of the shoe itself - it’s a combination lace-up shoe and loafer morphed together. Since there are no laces, it has the slip on feel but the buckle gives it a more polished and formal look. The versatility of the shoe sets itself apart as well - not only is it perfect with any suit, but it can be dressed down with jeans and cords as well.

Don’t shy away from some of the flashier wing tip styles, along with suede which are even more perfect to pair with jeans. They are made by shoemakers in all price ranges, here are two suggestions:

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To Boot New York (cognac)

http://bit.ly/T5yTkd

Magnanni (black)

http://bit.ly/TCFyyU

5. Straight leg corduroy pants

About a month ago I posted about light colored straight leg cords for fall, specifically light grey, silver and white. A trend I have been seeing lately is men wearing these pants in darker, bold colors, specifically rich browns, blues and even burgundy. Paired with the above mentioned monk strap shoes, or a pair of sleek boots, this look is sure to make a bold fall fashion statement. Nordstrom has the best online selection I have seen so I recommend starting there, along with J.Crew and Gap.

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Where to buy:

Nordstrom (burgundy)

http://bit.ly/OP80jV

http://bit.ly/T3mvgc

Nordstrom (blue)

http://bit.ly/S37sVA

J.Crew (dark slate, classic brown dark ink)

http://bit.ly/WLyHI0

The Gentleman's 5: The Denim & Chambray Shirt

As you know from our piece on layering with a denim shirt, we are huge advocates of denim and chambray shirts with an emphasis on fit. While we prefer the more solid, cleaner styles, there are also trendier designs with different shaped pockets, faded washes, and contrast stitching. While both are coarse fabric types, the only real difference between denim and chambray lies in the weight. Chambray is typically lighter than denim. Standard Playbook rules apply when it comes to fit - slim and tailored fits will look best on trim and athletic builds, and regular fit for regular to fuller builds. As for which shade to choose, we are not partial to one in particular. Both lighter and darker shades work - just remember, when pairing with jeans, go with a contrasting shade of denim.

Here are the five you need to know about in no particular order:

5.  JCrew (@jcrew) - http://bit.ly/13CFA3E 

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This ultra lightweight chambray comes in a handful of lighter colors perfect for spring & summer, in both regular and slim fit.

4. Polo Ralph Lauren (@RalphLauren) - http://bit.ly/Zm8gIu

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Subtle details like the shorter spread collar and not having the traditional Polo logo on the front make for a clean finish. This bold indigo in their custom fit is sure to pop against a lighter pant.

3. Banana Republic (@BananaRepublic) - http://brstyl.es/YKmR24

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My own.

2. Charles Tyrwhitt (@ctshirts) - http://bit.ly/XSrSSY 

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An extra slim fit by one of London’s fine shirt makers, this is a killer dark wash with a crisp design. This is the dressiest of the bunch.

1. JCrew (@jcrew) - http://bit.ly/YtLBuv

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A true denim wash with unique “bird’s eye” weave and single chest patch pocket, consider wearing this trimmer style on its own or layered.

Any of the above will be a valuable wardrobe addition, especially as we transition into spring. Pair them with lighter colored trousers and denim, white especially, and don’t be afraid to add a cardigan or jacket. 

As always, questions are welcome.


@GentsPlaybook

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